DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

New Fashion Products Development through Consumer Co-Creation

  • Jaekyong Lee (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design, Seoul National University) ;
  • Ho Jung Choo (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design, Seoul National University/Research Institute of Human Ecology, Seoul National University)
  • 투고 : 2022.12.19
  • 심사 : 2023.04.27
  • 발행 : 2023.06.30

초록

New product development (NPD) is crucial for fashion brands as they are required to constantly innovate in product design and technology to remain competitive in the global fashion market. In this study, we investigated the co-creative new fashion product development (NFPD) process to understand its structural characteristics and examined the components of this business model through case studies. Fashion companies frequently collaborate with consumers to create unique and innovative fashion items that both satisfy consumer demand and expand their economic potential. Base on case studied involving consumer participation in NFPD, our study analyzed the structural characteristics of the co-creative NFPD process. Consequently, our investigation identified five key factors of the co-creative NFPD business model: co-value, co-creator, co-activity, co-platform, and co-partner. The co-creation approach established in this study will help advance research on new fashion strategies and provide foundational information for Korean fashion companies that are facing an increasingly competitive global market, thus making a significant contribution to the literature.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Acharya, A., Singh, S. K., Pereira, V., & Singh, P. (2018). Big data, knowledge co-creation and decision making in fashion industry. International Journal of Information Management, 42, 90-101. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijinfomgt.2018.06.008
  2. Adidas. (2017). Adidas Launches AM4 Project in Landmark Moment for Speedfactory Facility. https://www.adidas-group.com/en/media/news-archive/press-releases/2017/adidas-launches-am4-project-landmark-moment-speedfactory-facilit/
  3. Adidas. (n.d.). History. https://www.adidas-group.com/en/about/history/
  4. Amit, R., & Zott, C. (2012). Creating value through business model innovation. MIT Sloan Management Review, 53(3), 41-49.
  5. Aquilani, B., Silvestri, C., & Ruggieri, A. (2016). Sustainability, TQM and value co-creation processes: The role of critical success factors. Sustainability, 8(10), 995. https://doi.org/10.3390/su8100995
  6. Bendapudi, N., & Leone, R. P. (2003). Psychological implications of customer participation in co-production. Journal of Marketing, 67(1), 14-28. https://doi.org/10.1509/jmkg.67.1.14.18592
  7. Black-Paulick, A. (2017). The magic woman of Huay Pu Keng. Rank&File. https://rankandfilemag.com/issue-5/ways-of-change/
  8. Boccieri, C. (n.d.). #MeetTheMB100 -Cara Boccieri, Founder, Akamae. Meaningful Busines. https://www.meaningful.business/meetthemb100-2020-cara-boccieri-founder-akamae/
  9. Bujor, A., Avasilcai, S., & Alexa, L. (2017). Co-creation in fashion industry: The case of Awaytomars. Annals of the University of Oradea, Fascicle of Management and Technological Engineering, 3, 22-25. https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Adriana-Bujor/publication/327338350_CO-CREATION_IN_FASHION_INDUSTRY_THE_CASE_OF_AWAYTOMARS/links/5b88fc1aa6fdcc5f8b734542/CO-CREATION-IN-FASHION-INDUSTRY-THE-CASE-OF-AWAYTOMARS.pdf
  10. Burns, L. D., & Bryant, N. O. (2007). The business of fashion : Designing, manufacuturing, and marketing (3rd ed.). Fairchild Publications.
  11. Chesbrough, H. W. (2003). Open innovation: The new imperative for creating and profiting from technology. Harvard Business Press.
  12. Choi, E., Ko, E., & Kim, A. J. (2016). Explaining and predicting purchase intentions following luxury-fashion brand value co-creation encounters. Journal of Business Research, 69(12), 5827-5832. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2016.04.180
  13. Cooper, R. G. (1979). The dimensions of industrial new product success and failure. Journal of Marketing, 43(3), 93-103. https://doi.org/10.1177/002224297904300310
  14. Cooper, R. G. (1983a). A process model for industrial new product development. IEEE Transactions on Engineering Management, 30(1), 2-11. https://doi.org/10.1109/TEM.1983.6448637
  15. Cooper, R. G. (1983b). The new product process: An empirically-based classification scheme. R&D Management, 13(1), 1-13. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-9310.1983.tb01124.x
  16. Cooper, R. G., & Kleinschmidt, E. J. (1993). Major new products: What distinguishes the winners in the chemical industry? Journal of Product Innovation Management, 10(2), 90-111. https://doi.org/10.1016/0737-6782(93)90002-8
  17. Czepiel, J. A. (1990). Service encounters and service relationships: Implications for research. Journal of Business Research, 20(1), 13-21. https://doi.org/10.1016/0148-2963(90)90038-F
  18. Denny, S. (2020, November 20). How Adidas Approaches CoCreation by 'Swimming in the Culture'. Inc. https://www.inc.com/stephen-denny/how-adidas-approaches-co-creationby-swimming-in-culture.html
  19. Denny, S., Leinberger, P., & Solis, B. (2020). Unfiltered marketing: 5 Rules to win back trust, credibility, and customers in a digitally distracted world. Career Press.
  20. Fedorenko, I., & Berthon, P. (2017). Beyond the expected benefits: unpacking value co-creation in crowdsourcing business models. AMS Review, 7(3), 183-194. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13162-017-0106-7
  21. Fernando. (2017, March 25). Ways of Change -an ethical fashion brand. FerWay Designs. https://ferwaydesigns.com/ways-of-change/
  22. Park, S. (2018, April 20). 휠라, 8개국 47개 브랜드 연합 '역대급 콜라보'로 휠라보레이션 열풍 잇는다 [Fila, a combination of 47 brands from 8 countries, is continuing the Fila collaboration craze]. Financial News. https://www.fnnews.com/news/201804200922076654
  23. Frow, P., Nenonen, S., Payne, A., & Storbacka, K. (2015). Managing co-creation design: A strategic approach to innovation. British Journal of Management, 26(3), 463-483. https://doi.org/10.1111/1467-8551.12087
  24. Fuller, J., Muhlbacher, H., Matzler, K., & Jawecki, G. (2009). Consumer empowerment through internet-based co-creation. Journal of Management Information Systems, 26(3), 71-102. https://doi.org/10.2753/mis0742-1222260303
  25. Fuad-Luke, A. (2009). Design activism: Beautiful strangeness for a sustainable world. Earthscan.
  26. Gassmann, O. (2006). Opening up the innovation process: Towards an agenda. R&D Management, 36(3), 223-228. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-9310.2006.00437.x
  27. Gembarski, P. C., & Lachmayer, R. (2017). Designing customer co-creation: Business models and co-design activities. International Journal of Industrial Engineering and Management, 8(3), 121-130. http://ijiemjournal.uns.ac.rs/images/journal/volume8/03_IJIEM_2017_Gembarski.pdf https://doi.org/10.24867/IJIEM-2017-3-113
  28. Hailey, N. (2017, March 27). Floortje naar het einde van de wereld interview met Cara Boccieri van ways of change [Floortje to the end of the world interview with Cara Boccieri of ways of change] . By Hailey. https://byhailey.nl/ways-of-change/
  29. Henderson, K. (2018, January 19). Nike: Co-Creation. Prezi. https://prezi.com/pkcyrw8iruaz/nike-co-creation/
  30. Hoyer, W. D., Chandy, R., Dorotic, M., Krafft, M., & Singh, S. S. (2010). Consumer cocreation in new product development. Journal of Service Research, 13(3), 283-296. https://doi.org/10.1177/1094670510375604
  31. International Textile Newspaper. (2018, August 8). 휠라, 게임스트리머 '우왁굳'과 콜라보 에디션 출시 [Fila launches collaboration edition with game streamer 'Wowakgood']. International Textile Newspaper. http://www.itnk.co.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=57945
  32. Jo, D. (2018, August 6). 휠라, 게임 스트리머 '우왁굳'과 협업...1020 '취향저격' [Fila collaborates with game streamer 'Wowakgood'...1020 'My Style']. Korea Textile Newspaper. https://www.ktnews.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=107955
  33. Jung, H. (2018, August 7). '최악 폭염'도 못 말린 밤샘 노숙... 휠라보레이션이 뭐길래 [Even the worst heat wave, homeless overnight...What's Filaboration]. Korea Economy Newspaper. https://www.hankyung.com/economy/article/201808077407g
  34. Kalaignanam, K., & Varadarajan, R. (2006). Customers as coproducers: Implications for marketing strategy effectiveness and marketing operations efficiency. In R. F. Lusch, & S. L. Vargo (Eds.), The service dominant logic of marketing: Dialog, debate and directions (pp. 166-179). Routledge.
  35. Kambil, A., Ginsberg, A., & Bloch, M. (1996). Re-inventing value propositions. New York University. http://hdl.handle.net/2451/14205
  36. Katz, J.E., & Sugiyama, S. (2005). Mobile phones as fashion statements: The co-creation of mobile communication's public meaning. In R. Ling, & P. E. Pedersen (Eds.), Mobile communications: Computer supported cooperative work (pp. 63-81). Springer. https://doi.org/10.1007/1-84628-248-9_5
  37. Keiser, S. J., Vandermar, D. A., & Garner, M. B. (2017). Beyond design: The synergy of apparel product development (4th ed.). Bloomsbury Publishing.
  38. Kim, J. (2018, Decemver 3). 빅데이터로 분석한 2018년 패션 산업 10대 뉴스 [Top 10 fashion industry news in 2018 analyzed with big data]. Fashion Seoul. https://fashionseoul.com/163132
  39. Kim, Y. J., Rha, J. Y., & Lee, Y. (2015). ICT development and customer participation in fashion industry-case studies using value co-creation of business model. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 17(6), 907-918. https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.6.907
  40. Kohler, T. (2015). Crowdsourcing-based business models: How to create and capture value. California Management Review, 57(4), 63-84. https://doi.org/10.1525/cmr.2015.57.4.63
  41. Koo, H. G., & Rha, J. Y. (2012). How can we facilitate cocreation of value?: Findings from expert panel interviews. Journal of Consumption Culture, 15(3), 159-186. https://doi.org/10.17053/jcc.2012.15.3.008
  42. Korea Federation of Textiles Industries. (2020). 2020 FW research analysis & 2020 SS market scale: The second half year statistic report. https://www.fashionnet.or.kr/researchreport/20354/
  43. Kunz, G. I. (2010). Merchandising: Theory, principles, and practice (3rd ed.). Fairchild Books.
  44. Lawton, J. (2006, December 11). Web T-Shirt Company Builds a Community, Business. npr. https://www.npr.org/2006/12/11/6607681/web-t-shirt-company-builds-a-community-business
  45. Lee, Y. (2004). Fashion and basic apparel goods in merchandising process (Part 2) planning, production, and presentation. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textile, 28(7), 904-912.
  46. Maidique, M. A., & Zirger, B. J. (1984). A study of success and failure in product innovation: The case of the U.S. electronics industry. IEEE Transactions on Engineering Management, 31(4), 192-203. https://doi.org/10.1109/TEM.1984.6447537
  47. Massa, L., & Tucci, C. L. (2013). Business model innovation. In M. Dodgson, D. Gann, & N. Phillips (Eds.), The oxford handbook of innovation management (Vol. 20, pp. 420-441). Oxford University Press.
  48. May-Plumlee, T., & Little, T. J. (1998). No-interval coherently phased product development model for apparel. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 10(5), 342-364. https://doi.org/10.1108/09556229810239333
  49. Moretti, I. C., & Braghini Junior, A. (2017). Reference model for apparel product development. Independent Journal of Management & Production, 8(1), 232-262. https://doi.org/10.14807/ijmp.v8i1.538
  50. Movingworlds. (n.d.). Akamae: A For-profit with social mission. https://movingworlds.org/organization/617
  51. Nambisan, S. (2003). Information systems as a reference discipline for new product development. MIS Quarterly, 27(1), 1-18. https://doi.org/10.2307/30036517
  52. Nenonen, S., & Storbacka, K. (2010). Business model design: Conceptualizing networked value co-creation. International Journal of Quality and Service Sciences, 2(1), 43-59. https://doi.org/10.1108/17566691011026595
  53. Ng, I., & Briscoe, G. (2012). Value, variety and viability: New business models for co-creation in outcome-based contracts. International Journal of Service Science, Management, Engineering, and Technology, 3(3), 26-48. https://doi.org/10.4018/jssmet.2012070103
  54. Nickell, J., & Kalmikoff, J. (2010). Threadless: Ten years of tshirts from the world's most inspiring online art community. Abrams Image.
  55. O'malley, M. (2018, October 23). How Akamae uses fashion co-creation to support refugee communities. Eco Warrior Princess. https://ecowarriorprincess.net/2018/10/how-akamae-uses-fashion-co-creation-support-refugee-communities/
  56. O'Hern, M. S., & Rindfleisch, A. (2010). Customer co-creation: A typology and research agenda. Review of marketing research, 6(1), 84-106. https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Matt-[1] Ohern/publication/269102680_Customer_Co-Creation/links/548083120cf263ee1adf994f/Customer-Co-Creation.pdf https://doi.org/10.1108/S1548-6435(2009)0000006008
  57. Osterwalder, A., Pigneur, Y., & Clark, T. (2010). Business model generation: A handbook for visionaries, game changers, and challengers. John Wiley & Sons.
  58. Parker-Strak, R., Barnes, L., Studd, R., & Doyle, S. (2020). Disruptive product development for online fast fashion retailers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 24(3), 517-532. https://doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-08-2019-0170
  59. Prahalad, C. K., & Ramaswamy, V. (2000). Co-opting customer competence. Harvard Business Review, 78(1), 79-87.
  60. Prahalad, C. K., & Ramaswamy, V. (2004a). Co-creation experiences: The next practice in value creation. Journal of Interactive Marketing, 18(3), 5-14. https://doi.org/10.1002/dir.20015
  61. Prahalad, C. K., & Ramaswamy, V. (2004b). The future of competition: Co-creating unique value with customers. Harvard Business School Press.
  62. Park, H., & Lee, J. (2018). 한국 패션의류산업의 구조고도화 전략 [Structural improvement strategies of the fashion clothing industry in Korea]. Korea Institute for Industrial Economics & Trade. https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE11117791
  63. Park, H., & Kim, S.-I. (2020). A case study on design collaboration marketing in Korean cross-business. Journal of Digital Convergence, 18(5), 383-389. https://doi.org/10.14400/JDC.2020.18.5.383
  64. Preuss, A. (2017, October 23). In pictures: Adidas' first Speedfactory collection AM4. FASHION UNITED. https://fashio nunited.com/news/fashion/in-pictures-adidas-first-speedfactory-collection-am4/2017102317951
  65. Qi, Y., Wang, X., Li, Y., Zhang, G., & Jin, H. (2021). The effects of inter-organizational compatibility on knowledge transfer in cross-border M&As. Management Decision, 59(9), 2123-2142. https://doi.org/10.1108/MD-03-2020-0349
  66. Ramaswamy, V. (2008). Co-creating value through customers' experiences: The Nike case. Strategy & Leadership, 36(5), 9-14. https://doi.org/10.1108/10878570810902068
  67. Ramaswamy, V. (2011). It's about human experiences... and beyond, to co-creation. Industrial Marketing Management, 40(2), 195-196. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indmarman.2010.06.030
  68. Ramaswamy, V., & Gouillart, F. (2010). The power of cocreation: Build it with them to boost growth, productivity, and profits. Simon and Schuster.
  69. Ramaswamy, V., & Ozcan, K. (2016). Brand value co-creation in a digitalized world: An integrative framework and research implications. International Journal of Research in Marketing, 33(1), 93-106. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijresmar.2015.07.001
  70. Robey, T. E. (2017, November 6). What Happened to the Internet's Favorite T-Shirt Company? RACKED. https://www.ra cked.com/2017/11/6/16551468/threadless-t-shirts-ecommerce
  71. Roses, M. (2019, January 29). Awaytomars Collaboration as innovation. Metal. https://metalmagazine.eu/en/post/interview/awaytomars-collaboration-as-innovation
  72. Rozenfeld, H., Forcellini, F., Amaral, D., Toledo, J., Silva, S., Alliprandini, D., & Scalice, R. (2006). Product development management: A reference for process improvement. Sao Paulo: Saraiva. http://mtc-m16b.sid.inpe.br/col/sid.inpe.br/mtc-m17@80/2007/08.03.15.49/doc/henrique_rozenfeld.pdf
  73. Salpini, C. (2021, March 11). Adidas aims for DTC to be 50% of sales by 2025. Retail Dive. https://www.retaildive.com/news/adidas-aims-for-dtc-to-be-50-of-sales-by-2025/596509/
  74. Sanders, E. B.-N., & Stappers, P. J. (2008). Co-creation and the new landscapes of design. CoDesign, 4(1), 5-18. https://doi.org/10.1080/15710880701875068
  75. Sawyer, J. (2018, Decemper 4). Adidas Taps NYC & LA Creators for Speedfactory AM4 Sneakers. Highsnobiety. https://hypebeast.com/2018/12/adidas-speedfactory-am4-nyc-la-release-details
  76. Sipress, A. (2007, January 18). T-Shirt maker's style, drawn from web users. Washington Post. https://www.washington post.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/06/17/AR2007061701350.html
  77. Silva, R. J., & Rupasinghe, T. (2016). Characterization of new product development (NPD) models applicable to enhance the overall performance of the apparel industry. International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology, 6(3), 1-14. https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/papers.cfm?abstract_id=2838803
  78. Soley, A. (2015, October 29). Threadless: The Continuing Success of one of the older Crowdsourcing companies. Digital Innovation and Transformation. https://d3.harvard.edu/platform-digit/submission/threadless-the-continuing-success-of-one-of-the-older-crowdsourcing-companies/
  79. Stern, S., & Porter, M. E. (2001). Innovation: Location matters. MIT Sloan Management Review, 42(4), 28. http://snu-primo.hosted.exlibrisgroup.com/82SNU:TN_cdi_proquest_journals_224961501
  80. Threadless. (n.d.-a). Our values. https://www.threadless.com/values/
  81. Threadless. (n.d.-b). Design challenges. https://www.threadless.com/make/submit/
  82. Towers, S. (2011, November 28). Nike's co-dependency with its customers means business. Forbes. https://www.forbes.com/sites/infosys/2011/11/28/co-creation/?sh=3498ca152ead
  83. Tran, Y., Hsuan, J., & Mahnke, V. (2011). How do innovation intermediaries add value? Insight from new product development in fashion markets. R&D Management, 41(1), 80-91. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-9310.2010.00628.x
  84. Warner, B. (2020, December 2). Democratic design -but make it fashion Awaytomars. Atlas of the Future. https://atlasofthefuture.org/project/awaytomars/
  85. Wendy. (2017, October 28). Cara gelooft in de menselijke verbinding. https://www.wendyonline.nl/cara-gelooft-in-de-menselijke-verbinding/
  86. Wickett, J. L, Gaskill, L. R., & Damhorst, M. L. (1999). Apparel retail product development: Model testing and expansion. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 17(1), 21-35. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9901700103
  87. Wright, A. (2016, March 14). Nike: Facilitating customer experience to co-create value. Marketing Discussion. https://marketingdiscussions.wordpress.com/2016/03/14/nike-facilitating-customer-experience-to-co-create-value/
  88. Yang, S. (2019, November 14). 휠라X게임 유튜버 컬래버 라인 출시, 신개념 '휠라보레이션' [Fila X Game YouTuber collaboration line launched, new concept 'Filaboration']. Single List. http://www.slist.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=114434
  89. Yimin, D. (2019, July 20). July remake-approved brands: summer ready. remark. https://remake.world/stories/july-remake-approved-brands-summer-ready/
  90. Yoo, S. (2007, April 11). 꼬리가 몸통 삼킨 '휠라', "신화 다시 쓴다" [Fila, whose tail swallowed its body, "Write legend again"]. Money Today. https://news.mt.co.kr/mtview.php?no=2007041112404165602&outlink=1&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fko.wikipedia.org
  91. Zhang, H., & Ma, Z. (2022). Is my design better? A co-creation perspective for online fashion design. Journal of Research in Interactive Marketing, 16(3), 384-402. https://doi.org/10.1108/JRIM-05-2021-0132