The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
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A study on the characteristics of gender fluidity expressed in modern knit fashion

현대 니트 패션에 표현된 젠더 플루이드 특성 연구

  • Yeonji Lee (Dept. of Fashion Design, Gangneung-Wonju National University) ;
  • Sohee Um (Dept. of Fashion Design, Gangneung-Wonju National University)
  • 이연지 (국립 강릉원주대학교 패션디자인학과) ;
  • 엄소희 (국립 강릉원주대학교 패션디자인학과)
  • Received : 2022.06.23
  • Accepted : 2023.02.08
  • Published : 2023.02.28
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Abstract

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity-viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum-is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017-fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

Keywords

References

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