DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Characteristics of Neo-Deconstructivism in Modern Men's Fashion Bags -Focusing on the 2019 S/S~2021 S/S Men's Collection-

현대 남성 패션 가방에 나타난 신해체주의 특성 -2019 S/S~2021 S/S 남성 컬렉션을 중심으로-

  • Hong, Yunjung (Dept. of Fashion Design, Yuhan University) ;
  • Kim, Rira (Dept. of Fashion Design, Yuhan University)
  • 홍윤정 (유한대학교 패션디자인학과) ;
  • 김리라 (유한대학교 패션디자인학과)
  • Received : 2022.05.27
  • Accepted : 2022.08.06
  • Published : 2022.09.30

Abstract

This study analyzed the characteristics and expression techniques of men's fashion bags and their aesthetic and formative values in modern men's fashion from the perspective of neo-deconstructivism. The study subjects were men's fashion bags appearing in four collections in Paris, Milan, London, and New York in the 2019 S/S-2021 S/S season. As a research method, the characteristics and expression techniques of the new disintegration of men's fashion bags were analyzed and categorized through prior research and literature research. The results of the study are as follows: First, the neoclassical characteristics of men's fashion bags caused 'Re-creation' to appear as the dissolution of the design principle and structure of the bag, and it was derived as 'decomposition of form' and 'decomposition of dress method'. Second, the 'Inclusive Diversity' of modern men's fashion bags of neo-deconstructivism appears in the form of gender demarcation and dissonance coordination. Third, 'Playfulness' in men's fashion bags involves the pursuit of fun through unconventional changes in the shape, size, and design of the bag, and it sometimes provides a fresh, new play experience through unpredictable design elements. Fourth, the 'Pursuit of new values' in male's fashion bags was a characteristic wherein the boundary between DIY attire and daily clothes and high fashion by the individual selection of consumers was blurred. This work is meaningful in that it conducted a basic study of men's fashion bags by examining the modern men's fashion bag from the perspective of the philosophical trend of neo-deconstructivism and categorizing its characteristics.

Keywords

References

  1. A-Cold-Wall 20F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/a-cold-wall/slideshow/collection#33
  2. Acne Studios 19S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/acne-studios/slideshow/collection#10
  3. Announcing the Pantone color of the year 2019 (n.d.). Pantone. Retrieved May 15, 2022, from http://www.pantone.kr/ColoroftheYear2019.html
  4. Bag, (n.d.). Oxford Learner's Dictionaries, Retrieved from https://www.oxfordlearnersdictionaries.com/definition/english/bag_1?q=bag
  5. Berthold 19S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/berthold/slideshow/collection#18
  6. Buckingham, W. (2011). The philosophy book: Big ideas simply explained. England: Dorling Kindersley Ltd.
  7. Cho, H. A., & Kim, Y. I. (2019). Expressive characteristics of everydayness in hyperrealism art and fashion-focused on Duane Hanson and Vetements. Journal of Fashion Design, 19(3), 55-72. doi:10.18652/2019.19.3.4
  8. Deconstructivism (n.d.). Cambridge Dictionary, Retrieved from https://dictionary.cambridge.org/ko/%EC%82%AC%EC%A0%84/%EC%98%81%EC%96%B4/deconstruction?q=Deconstruction
  9. Dior Men 20F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph], Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/fall-2020-menswear/dior-homme/slideshow/collection#33
  10. Dior Men 21S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph], Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2021-menswear/dior-homme/slideshow/collection#1
  11. Dolce & Gabbana 20F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/dolce-gabbana/slideshow/collection#13
  12. Emporio Armani 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/emporio-armani/slideshow/collection#57
  13. E. Tautz 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/e-tautz/slideshow/collection#13
  14. E. Tautz 20F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/e-tautz/slideshow/collection#19
  15. Fendi 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/fendi/slideshow/collection#46
  16. Fendi 20F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved May 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/fendi/slideshow/collection#1
  17. Fendi 21S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2021-menswear/fendi/slideshow/collection#32
  18. Feng Chen Wang 19S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/feng-chen-wang/slideshow/collection#11
  19. Gender neutral genderless. (2019, August 5). Fashionnet. Retrieved May 15, 2022, from http://www.fashionnet.or.kr/trend-now/2131/
  20. Granata, F. (2012). Deconstruction fashion -carnival and the grotesque-. Journal of Design History, 26(2), 182 -198. doi:10.1093/jdh/eps050. Retrieved from https://academic.oup.com/jdh/article/2
  21. Gucci 21S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph].Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-menswear/gucci/slideshow/collection#33
  22. Jacquemus 20F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/jacquemus/slideshow/collection#12
  23. Jil Sander 21S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-menswear/jil-sander/slideshow/collection#17
  24. JW Anderson 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/j-w-anderson/slideshow/collection#35
  25. Jung, S. Y., & Kim, J. Y., (2006). A study on fashion bag in contemporary fashion culture, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 14(2), 334-351. Retrieved from https://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=JAKO200618317233311&dbt=NART
  26. Juun. J 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/juunj/slideshow/collection#22
  27. Juun. J 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/juunj/slideshow/collection#15
  28. Junya Watanabe 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/junya-watanabe/slideshow/collection#5
  29. Kenzo 19S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/kenzo/slideshow/details#36
  30. Kenzo 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/kenzo/slideshow/collection#11
  31. Kidsuper 20S/S. (n.d.). Fashionsnap. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.fashionsnap.com/collection/kidsuper/2020ss/#lg=1&slide=31
  32. Kim, R. R., & Kim, Y. I. (2018). The type and characteristics of fashion image and handbag design preferred by Korean women according to daily situations, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 68(6), 132-149. doi:10.7233/jksc.2018.68.6.132
  33. Kim, M. H. (2019). A study on the neo-deconstruction design in Loewe, The Treatise on The Plastic Media, 22(4), 14-24. doi: 10.35280/KOTPM.2019.22.4.2
  34. Kim, M. H., & Park, Y. K. (2020). Study on the development of denim design with 3D printing and DTP from neo-deconstructivism, Korea Institute of Cultural Product & Design, -(60), 157-166. doi:10.18555/kicpd.2020.60.15
  35. Kim, M. J. (2013). Aesthetics in dress: Perspective on fashion and thoughts on fashion. Paju; Kyumoonsa.
  36. Kim, J. Y. (2009). Bag design appeared in fashion collections after 2000s, The Korean Society Of Design Culture, 15(3), 78-92. Retrieved from http://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE06542053
  37. Kim, J. Y., & Park, E. K. (2022). A study on the design characteristics of neo-deconstructivism fashion-comparison of Vetements and Marques' Almeida-, Journal of The Korean Society of Fashion Design, 22(1), 39-58. doi:10.18652/2022.22.1.3
  38. Kim, S. A. (2008). Characteristic analysis of the deconstructive shoes design in modern fashion, The Korean Society of Fashion Design, 8(1), 135-149. Retrieved from https://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=NART56218506
  39. Kim, S. E., & Ha, J. S. (2016). A study on aesthetic values of neo-deconstructive fashion -focused on Vetments, Marques 'Almeida, Jacquemus-, Journal of Fashion Design, 16(4), 129-150. doi:10.18652/2016.16.4.8
  40. Kim, S. H., & Kim, Y. (2017). A study on the design characteristics in positive deconstruction fashion -focused on the collections since the 2014-, Journal of Fashion Design, 17(4), 67-85. doi:10.18652/2017.17.4.5
  41. Kim, S. S. (2013). An examination of five terms related to the phenomenon of the trans-boundaries of culture -consilience, fusion, convergence, complex, and articulation-, Philosophy and Culture, 26(-), 115-144. Retrieved from https://digital.kyobobook.co.kr/digital/article/articleDetail.ink?barcode=4010023932107 10023932107
  42. Kim, S. Y. (2016). Case and meaning of fashion bag accepted as convergences of fashion and art. Korea Science & Art Forum, 23(-), 39-52. doi: 10.17548/ksaf.2016.03.23.39
  43. Kwon, K. Y. (2006). A study of the formative characteristics and meanings in fashion design applying the principles of shape-transformation, International Journal of Human Ecology, 44(12), 167-178. Retrieved from https://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=JAKO200606414526371
  44. Lee, M. G. (2018). A study on the fashion design by neo-deconstructivism - based on Paulo Coelho's novel 'Eleven Minutes', (Unpublished master's thesis). Kukmin University, Seoul, Korea. Retrieved from http://www.riss.kr/search/detail/DetailView.do?p_mat_type=be54d9b8bc7cdb09&control_no=70c4139aa6348119ffe0bdc3ef48d419&outLink=N
  45. Lee, E. J., & Kang, K. A. (2009). A study on bag in the western -from the middle ages to modern times-, Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 11(3), 27-41. Retrieved from http://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200917337250321.page
  46. Lee, G. R. (2007). Deconstructivism and Subsequent. Paju, Korea: Open Books.
  47. Lee, N. Y. (2009). A study of men's bag design with a motive of Mondrian's paintings. (Unpublished master's thesis). Hongick University, Seoul, Korea. Retrieved from https://academic.naver.com/article.naver?doc_id=18642759
  48. Lee, Y. H. (2002). Fashion Culture. Seoul: Yehaksa.
  49. Lee, Y. J. (2011). Bag preference of men according to their age and gender-role identity types, Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 12(1), 82-90. Retrieved from https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE08795043 https://doi.org/10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.1.082
  50. Lee, Y. W. (2021, October 1). 잘 차려입고 엉덩이에 장지갑 꽂는 남자? 빅백.토드백 장만하셔야죠 [A man who dresses up and puts a long wallet on his butt? Big bag, tote bag], MBN, Retrieved March 3, 2022, from https://www.mk.co.kr/news/business/view/2021/10/935593/
  51. Loewe 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2020-menswear/loewe/slideshow/details#3
  52. Loewe 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2020-menswear/loewe/slideshow/collection#14
  53. Loewe 20F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion- shows/fall-2020-menswear/loewe/slideshow/details#70
  54. Louis Vuitton 19F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-menswear/louis-vuitton/slideshow/collection#42
  55. Louis Vuitton 19S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/louis-vuitton/slideshow/collection#31
  56. Louis Vuitton 20F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/louis-vuitton/slideshow/details#5
  57. Louis Vuitton 20F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/louis-vuitton/slideshow/details#111
  58. Louis Vuitton 21S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-menswear/louis-vuitton/slideshow/collection#70
  59. Marni 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2020-menswear/marni/slideshow/collection#13
  60. Matthew Miller 19S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/matthew-miller/slideshow/collection#13
  61. Miguel Vieria 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.fashionsnap.com/collection/miguel-vieira/2020ss/#lg=1&slide=27
  62. Munn 20F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Munnseoul. Retrieved February 17 from http://munnseoul.kr/web/upload/p2/collection/20fw(lfwm)/27.jpg
  63. Neil Barrett 19F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-menswear/neil-barrett/slideshow/collection#51
  64. Neil Barrett 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/neil-barrett/slideshow/collection#50
  65. NYMD All Stars 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. New York Times. Retrieved February 17 from https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/06/03/fashion/runway-mens/NYMDallstr-spring-2020men-slide-EVN3/NYMDallstr-spring-2020men-slide-EVN3-superJumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale
  66. Raf Simons 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Sipmag. Retrieved February 17 from https://sipmag.kr/63
  67. Roh, S. W., & Choi, S. A. (2012). Design & fabric developments for the new men's bag brand of Samduk commerce Inc.-, Design Convergence Study, 11(4). 102-115. Retrieved from https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE08867747
  68. Shin, M. R. & Lee, J. H. (2020). Semantic analysis on change of deconstructive fashion design from a semiotic perspective, Journal of Fashion Design, 20(4), 113-129. doi:10.18652/2020.20.4.7
  69. Stefan Cooke 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/stefan-cooke/slideshow/collection#20
  70. Thom Browne 19S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/thom-browne/slideshow/details#138
  71. Thom Browne 20S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/thom-browne/slideshow/details#69
  72. Undercover 20F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/undercover/slideshow/collection#51
  73. Versace 19S/S. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/versace/slideshow/collection#36
  74. Yu, R. N. (2015, September 10). 옷 만드는 슈퍼 히어로 '뎀나 즈바살리아'와 크루 [Clothing designers, superhero 'Demna Gvasalia' and crew]. ELLE. Retrieved April 3, 2022, from https://www.elle.co.kr/article/13437
  75. Zegna 19F/W. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved February 17 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-menswear/ermenegildo-zegna/slideshow/collection#2