DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

색동을 활용한 신한복 제품의 디자인 개발 -CLO 3D 프로그램을 활용하여-

Designing New Hanbok Products Using Saekdong -Using with CLO 3D-

  • 김희령 (경인여자대학교 패션디자인학과)
  • Heeyoung Kim (Dept. of Fashion Design, Kyungin Women's University)
  • 투고 : 2021.12.14
  • 심사 : 2022.08.28
  • 발행 : 2022.12.31

초록

This study examines the use of traditional patterns by new Hanbok brands. A Saekdong print pattern based on previous research was developed and applied to clothing designs. A total of 488 images of printed products from the seven new Hanbok brands and 219 images from the collections of the National Folk Museum of Korea were analyzed. Traditional patterns accounted for 47.4% of the total printed products of the new Hanbok designs, with the following ratio of use, in descending order: flower patterns, traditional paintings, animals, geometrical designs, Dancheong, text and others, Jogakbo, and Saekdong. Saekdong was found in three brand products, and the color or shape was modified. To develop the Saekdong image, five colors - red, yellow, blue, white, and green - were selected. The ratio of use for each color and the width of each color were determined with reference to previous studies. The average color value was determined through color analysis of the Saekdong collections. A total of seven items were designed for the print pattern, and four items were added for coordination to consist of four styles. This study aims to use the results of this analysis to provide insights into product development using traditional patterns.

키워드

과제정보

본 연구는 한국연구재단의 신진연구자 지원사업의 연구비를 지원받아 수행되었음(NRF 2022S1A5A805561811).

참고문헌

  1. An, M.-s. (2020a). An analysis of the condition and product types of New Han-Bok skirts in ready-to-wear brands. NAMDOMINSOKYEONGU, 40, 117-142. doi:10.46247/NF.40.4
  2. An, M.-S. (2020b). Analysis on the current status and type of New-Hanbok Jeogori in ready-to-wear brands. NAMDOMINSOKYEONGU, 41, 105-131. doi:10.46247/NF.41.4
  3. An, M.-S., Cha, S.-J., & Heo, S.-Y. (2021). Development of New Hanbok Jeogori design for customization (1). Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 24(1), 5-17. doi:10.16885/jktc.2021.03.24.1.5
  4. An, M.-S., Heo, S.-Y., & Cha, S.-J. (2020). A study on perceptions and preferences of new jeogori. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 23(2), 5-16. doi:10.16885/jktc.2020.06.23.2.5
  5. Bae, R., Lee, m., & Kim, E. (2016). A study on the current status of hanbok brands and aesthetic characteristics. Journal of Fashion Business, 20(1), 127-141. doi:10.12940/jfb.2016.20.1.127
  6. Cha, S.-J., An, M.-S., Heo, S.-Y., Ra J.-H., & Jeon, W.-R. (2020). A comparison study of new hanbok brand skirt pattern for developing of customizing system. Journal of The Korea Society of Computer and Information, 25(6), 183-191. doi:10.9708/jksci.2020.25.06.183
  7. Cha, S.-J., Heo, S.-Y., & An, M.-S. (2020). Comparison of new hanbok jeogory pattern for customizing system development. Journal of The Korea Society of Computer and Information, 25(11), 167-178. doi:10.9708/jksci.2020.25.11.167
  8. Chang, B. M. (2021, February). 2021 S/S TREND REPORT. Marie Claire Korea. Retrieved from https://www.marieclairekorea.com/fashion/2021/01/2021-ss-trend-report/
  9. Cho, H. L., & Kim, Y. I. (1996). Study on Korean design based on traditional striped clothes (Saikdong) (1). Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 20(5), 718-727.
  10. Cho, W.-H., & Kim, M.-J. (2010). Genealogy of the rainbow stripe in ethnic costumes in East Asia. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 60(4), 113-125.
  11. Choi, I. S., & Kim, E. J. (2018). Development of New-Hanbok accessories through analyzing Yooso(流蘇) knot in Akhakgwebeom(樂學軌範). Journal of Basic Design & Art, 19(1), 551-564. doi:10.47294/KSBDA.19.1.42
  12. Choi, I., Lee, M., & Kim, E. (2017). A study on the formative characteristics of Hanbok in SNS proof shot - Focused on the women's Hanbok -. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 67(3), 15-30. doi:10.7233/jksc.2017.67.3.015
  13. Choi, S. H. (2016, March 21). 거리로 나온 한복 소녀들…'입고 싶은 옷' 문화를 만들다 [Hanbok girls on the street... make a culture of 'clothes they want to wear']. The Chosunilbo. Retrieved from https://www.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2016/03/21/2016032100122.html
  14. Choi, Y.-H., Chen, T., & Lee K.-H. (2020). The global response to K-POP idol group's New Hanbok: The case of Black Pink Fashion. Journal of Digital Convergence, 18(12), 533-541. doi:10.14400/JDC.2020.18.12.533
  15. Choi, Y. J. (2019). A study on design characteristics of new Hanbok - focused on the fashion from 2013 to 2017 -. Journal of Basic Design & Art, 20(3), 421-432. doi:10.47294/KSBDA.20.3.32
  16. Choi, Y.-J. (2001). An aesthetic study on saekdong in Korean costume. (Unpublished master's thesis). Hongik University, Seoul.
  17. Chu, Y.-J. (2004). A study on Saikdong of Korea. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 7(1), 91-104.
  18. Chung, S. Y. (2022, April 10). 짧게 입어봐! 윤아.제니.김나 영도 푹 빠진 크롭트 스타일에 도전! [Try it shorts! Challenged the cropped style that Yoona, Jennie, and Keem NaYoung also fell in love with!]. FashionN. Retrieved from https://www.fashionn.com/board/read_new.php?table=1004&number=40834
  19. Danha. (n.d.). 궁보치마 연지 [Gungbu skirt rouge]. Danha. Retrieved from https://danhaseoul.com/product/DHSK0033PK
  20. DMC MEDIA. (2021, June 3). 2021 소셜 미디어시장 및 현황 분석 보고서 [2021 Social media market and status analysis report]. DMC REPORT. Retrieved from https://www.dmcreport.co.kr/report/trendBrief/freeView?reportcode=DMCTBF20210050&drtopdeth=RPT_TYPE_1&keyword_type=REPORT_KEYWORD_16
  21. Geum, K.-S. (1994). The beauty of Korean traditional costume. Seoul: Youlhwadang Publishers.
  22. Hanbok Advancement Center. (2014, November 6). 한복진흥센터, 한복에 대한 인식 모바일 설문조사 [Hanbok Advancement Center, a mobile survey on Hanbok perception]. Hanbok Advancement Center. Retrieved from http://www.hanbokcenter.kr/user/nd45944.do?View&uQ=&itemCdTab=&pageLS=10&pageST=SUBJECT&pageSV=&page=7&pageSC=SORT_ORDER&pageSO=DESC&dmlType=&boardNo=00000030&dmlType=#attachdown
  23. Happly_hanbokbeagle. (2020, April 24). Instagram. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/B_XOjZCgSto/?utm_medium=copy_link
  24. Happly_hanbokbeagle. (2021, December 2). Instagram. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/CW-uvX7h6Ad/
  25. Heo, S., An, M., & Cha, S. (2021). A study on the perception and design preference of new Hanbok one-piece dress. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 23(1), 129-142. doi:10.30751/kfcda.2021.23.1.129
  26. Heo, S., Cha, S., & An, M. (2020). A study on the perception and design preference of New Hanbok's skirt. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 22(2), 137–149. doi:10.30751/kfcda.2020.22.2.137
  27. Heo_sarang. (2020, December 17). Instagram. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/CI5I2Lgj_jV/?utm_medium=copy_link
  28. Hong, M.-W. (2003). 전통 색동복식에 나타난 조형적 특성에 관한 고찰 [A study on the formative characteristics of traditional custom of Saekdong]. 産業技術硏究, 12(1), 47-65.
  29. Hong, S., Kim, E., & Bae, S. (2020). A development of Shinhanbok coat design using lattice window pattern of Huijeongdang, Changdeokgung palace. Journal of Fashion Business, 24(3), 121-137. doi:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.3.121
  30. Jang, H.-J. (2016). Designing New Hanbok for infants and children by using the constellations found on the murals from Goguryeo Tombs. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 19(4), 59-76. doi:10.16885/jktc.2016.12.19.4.59
  31. Jang, H.-J., & Kim, S.-H. (2017). The design development of New Hanbok for infant and children, applying the pattern of Sun.Moon in Koguryo tomb murals. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 20(3), 23-34. doi:10.16885/jktc.2017.9.20.3.23
  32. Jeong, H., & Lee, E. (2018). A case study on the new paradigm of Hanbok since 2010. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 21(4), 97-108. doi:10.16885/jktc.2018.12.21.4.97
  33. Jung, S.-E., & Lee, S.-Y. (2017). A study on the activation method of wearing Hanbok. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 19(4), 139-155.
  34. Kang B. H., Cho, H. L., & Kim, Y. I. (1998). Color analysis of Korean traditional striped clothes(Saikdong) for the development of Korean fashion design. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 22(3), 384-395.
  35. Kim, H. L. (2008). A study on fashion design applying the colors of Saekdong in the age of Joseon Dynasty (Unpublished master's thesis). Ewah Womans University, Seoul.
  36. Kim, J., & Na, Y. (2018). The origin and emotion of Saekdong in our surroundings. Science of Emotion & Sensibility, 21 (1), 99-114. doi:10.14695/KJSOS.2018.21.1.99
  37. Kim, J. A. (2011). A study on children's clothing in Korea after the open-door period (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Ewah Womans University, Seoul.
  38. Kim, J. H. (2003). The study of costume design through Saekdong - Focusing on the relation between Juyeokgoe and Saekdong - (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul.
  39. Kim, J.-u., & Kim, Y.-i. (1995). A study on the symbolic meaning of green in Korean culture. Journal of Korea Society of Color Studies, (5), 149-166.
  40. Kim, J. Y., & Yum, M. S. (2017). The development of stripe pattern using the formative characteristics of Saekdong. Journal of Fashion Design, 17(3), 121-139. doi:10.18652/2017.17.3.8
  41. Kim, K.-S. (2003). The costume of royal feast in Chosun Dynasty. Seoul: Kyungchoonsa.
  42. Kim, S., & Kim, E.-J. (2017). The study on the design of new Hanbok by digital textile printing(DTP) culture resource in Seoul. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 20(4), 97-111. doi:10.16885/jktc.2017.12.20.4.97
  43. Kim, Y. K., Kim, J. M., & Hong, N. Y. (2012). Research on the Saekdong in the late 20th century on the magazines. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 62(6), 154-164. doi:10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.154
  44. Kim, Y.-W., & Choi, J.-M. (2007). An analysis of recognition and image of Saek-dong in college students. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 57(7), 108-121.
  45. Korea Society of Color Studies. (Ed.). (2001). 色色가지 세상 [Colorful world]. Seoul: Kukjebook.
  46. Lee, H., & Kim, E. (2017). A study on the design of New Hanbok using Danchung's flower pattern. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 20(3), 5-22. doi:10.16885/jktc.2017.9.20.3.5
  47. Lee, J.-E., & Chang, M.-J. (2020). A study on the product classification system of New-Hanbok online shopping mall. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 23(3), 79-93. doi:10.16885/jktc.2020.09.23.3.79
  48. Lee, J.-H. (2016). A study on the New-Hanbok style from the perspective of vernacular design. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 66(7), 69-88. doi:10.7233/jksc.2016.66.7.069
  49. Lee, J. M. (2021, February). 편안하면서 시크하게 [Comfortable and chic]. Marie Claire Korea. Retrieved from https://www.marieclairekorea.com/fashion/2021/01/comfort-chic/
  50. Lee, M.-S. (2009). A study of the development of cultural products that utilize the traditional Sekdong image. Journal of Korean Society of Costume, 59(2), 101-110.
  51. Lee, M. S., & Kang, Y. H. (2018). A study on the digital media utilization and online shopping malls of the Hanbok brands. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 24(3), 425-441.
  52. Lee, N., Sung, O., & Kim. S. (2019). The design development of family formal clothes using 3D virtual clothing software. Journal of Fashion Business, 23(3), 35-50. doi:10.12940/jfb.2019.23.3.35
  53. LEESLE. (2021a, July 19). Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRkzRGGjPfY/?utm_medium=copy_link
  54. LEESLE. (2021b, September 15). Dragon Sweatshirt [Deep blue]. LEESLE. Retrieved from https://www.leesle.com/product/%EC%9A%A9%EC%95%88-%EB%A7%A8%ED%88%AC%EB%A7%A8-%EB%94%A5%EB%B8%94%EB%A3%A8/1729/category/49/display/1/
  55. Leitch, L. (2021a, June 19). Fendi SPRING 2022 MENSWEAR. Vogue Runway. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/fendi/slideshow/collection#5
  56. Leitch, L. (2021a, June 19). Fendi SPRING 2022 MENSWEAR. Vogue Runway. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/fendi/slideshow/collection#7
  57. LLEEHWA. (n.d.). 모란나비 SET [khaki] [Peony butterfly SET [khaki]]. LLEEHWA. Retrieved from http://www.lleehwa.com/goods/goods_view.php?goodsNo=1000000179
  58. Min, J. H. (2020, October 20). BTS.블랙핑크도 입었다...들 뜬 '한복' 업계 [BTS and BLACKPINK also wore...excited 'Hanbok' industry]. The Korea Economic Daily. Retrieved from https://www.hankyung.com/economy/article/2020101952791
  59. Minjuhwa_. (2020a, February 6). Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/p/B8NWCR6l4w7/
  60. Minjuhwa_. (2020b, August 20). Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/p/CEHG5UBj70d/?utm_medium=copy_link
  61. Mower, S. (2018a, October 2). Chanel SPRING 2019 READY-TO-WEAR. Vogue Runway. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/chanel/slideshow/collection#68
  62. Mower, S. (2018b, October 2). Chanel SPRING 2019 READY-TO-WEAR. Vogue Runway. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/chanel/slideshow/collection#69
  63. National Folk Museum of Korea. (n.d.-a). 대대(大帶) [Daedae]. National Folk Museum of Korea. Retrieved from https://www.nfm.go.kr/user/data/home/101/DataRelicView.do?seq=PS0100200100107377100000
  64. National Folk Museum of Korea. (n.d.-b). 한삼 [Hansam]. National Folk Museum of Korea. Retrieved from https://www.nfm.go.kr/user/data/home/101/DataRelicView.do?seq=PS0100200100107711400000
  65. National Folk Museum of Korea. (n.d.-c). 한삼 [Hansam]. National Folk Museum of Korea. Retrieved from https://www.nfm.go.kr/user/data/home/101/DataRelicView.do?seq=PS0100200100107375700000
  66. National Folk Museum of Korea. (n.d.-d). 원삼(圓衫) [Wonsam]. National Folk Museum of Korea. Retrieved from https://www.nfm.go.kr/common/data/home/relic/detailPopup.do?seq=PS0100200100103455400000
  67. National Folk Museum of Korea. (n.d.-e). 치마저고리 [Chimajeogori]. National Folk Museum of Korea. Retrieved from https://www.nfm.go.kr/common/data/home/relic/detailPopup.do?seq=PS0100200100109249400000
  68. National Folk Museum of Korea. (n.d.-f). 전복(戰服) [Jeonbok]. National Folk Museum of Korea. Retrieved from https://www.nfm.go.kr/common/data/home/relic/detailPopup.do?seq=PS0100200100108733000000
  69. National Folk Museum of Korea. (n.d.-g). 창의(氅衣) [Changui]. National Folk Museum of Korea. Retrieved from https://www.nfm.go.kr/user/data/home/101/DataRelicView.do?seq=PS0100200100107346700000
  70. National Folk Museum of Korea. (n.d.-h). 몽두리(蒙頭里) [Mongduri]. National Folk Museum of Korea. Retrieved from https://www.nfm.go.kr/common/data/home/relic/detailPopup.do?seq=PS0100200100108690100000
  71. Park, Y. S. (Ed.). (2007). Color 색채용어사전 [Dictionary of color terms]. Seoul: YeLim.
  72. Phelps, N. (2020a, November 22). Gucci SPRING 2021 READY-TO-WEAR. Vogue Runway. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/gucci/slideshow/collection#4
  73. Phelps, N. (2020b, November 22). Gucci SPRING 2021 READY-TO-WEAR. Vogue Runway. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/gucci/slideshow/collection#15
  74. Pithers, E. (2020a, September 25.). Boss SPRING 2021 READY-TO-WEAR. Vogue Runway. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/hugo-boss/slideshow/collection#1
  75. Pithers, E. (2020b, September 25.). Boss SPRING 2021 READY-TO-WEAR. Vogue Runway. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/hugo-boss/slideshow/collection#33
  76. Research Institute of Korean Studies, Korea University. (Ed.). (1980). 韓國民俗大觀 2: 日常生活/衣食住 [Korea folklore grand view 2: Everyday life, clothing]. Seoul: Korean University Press.
  77. Ryu, S.-O. (1998). 韓國服飾史 [The history of Korean costume]. Seoul: Soohaksa.
  78. Ryu, S.-O., Rhee, E. Y., & Hwang, S.-J. (1997). 복식 문화 [Costume culture]. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
  79. Shin, J.-Y., & Chang, M.-J. (2020). The current status of the application of knit materials in modern New-Hanbok. The Journal of the Korean Society of Knit Design, 18(2), 31-38. doi:10.35226/kskd.2020.18.2.31
  80. So, J. H. (2019, January 5). 2019년 인싸템 #바이크쇼츠 [2022 Insatem #bike shorts]. ELLE. Retrieved from https://www.elle.co.kr/article/21886
  81. Suh, O. K. (2009). A study on design of culture goods using cloth with Sackdong. Journal of the Korean Society Design Culture, 15(3), 153-160.
  82. Suh, O.-k. (2017). A study on necktie design inspired by saekdong. Journal of Communication Design, 60, 75-88.
  83. Tchai Kim. (n.d.). 튜튜블라우스_리버티_렉시 레드 [Tutu blouse_liberty_lexie red]. Tchai Kim. Retrieved from https://www.tchaikim.co.kr/product/detail.html?product_no=1047&cate_no=58&display_group=1
  84. Yang, J. N. (2013). A study on women's clothing design using the image of Korean Saekdong. Journal of the Korean Society Design Culture, 19(3), 437-445.
  85. Yim, L. (2019). A study on New-Hanbok styling of online shopping mall. Journal of Fashion Business, 23(4), 68-85. doi:10.12940/jfb.2019.23.4.68
  86. 색동 [Saekdong]. (n.d.) 국립국어원 표준국어대사전 [National Institute of Korean Language Standard Korean language dictionary]. Retrieved from https://stdict.korean.go.kr/search/searchView.do?word_no=446207&searchKeywordTo=3