Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Phase Behavior Study of Fatty Acid Potassium Cream Soaps

지방산 칼륨 Cream Soaps 의 상거동 연구

  • Received : 2022.03.15
  • Accepted : 2022.03.28
  • Published : 2022.03.30
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Abstract

The potassium cream soap with fatty acid called cleaning foam has a crystal gel structure, and unlike an emulsion system, it is weak to shear stress and shows characteristics that are easily separated under high temperature storage conditions. The crystal gel structure of cleansing foams is significantly influenced by the nature and proportion of fatty acids, degree of neutralization, and the nature and proportion of polyols. In order to investigate the effect of these parameters on the crystal gel structure, a ternary system consisting of water/KOH/fatty acid was investigated in this study. The investigation of differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) revealed that the eutectic point was found at the ratio of myristic acid (MA) : stearic acid (SA) = 3 : 1 and ternary systems were the most stable at the eutectic point. However, the increase in fatty acid content had little effect on stability. On the basis of viscosity and polarized optical microscopy (POM) measurements, the optimum degree of neutralization was found to be about 75%. The system was stable when the melting point (Tm) of the ternary system was higher than the storage temperature and the crystal phase was transferred to lamellar gel phase, but the increase in fatty acid content had little effect on stability. The addition of polyols to the ternary system played an important role in changing the Tm and causing phase transition. The structure of the cleansing foams were confirmed through cryogenic scanning electron microscope (Cryo-SEM), small and wide angle X-ray scattering (SAXS and WAXS) analysis. Since butylene glycol (BG), propylene glycol (PG), and dipropylene glycol (DPG) lowered the Tm and hindered the lamellar gel formation, they were unsuitable for the formation of stable cleansing foam. In contrast, glycerin, PEG-400, and sorbitol increased the Tm, and facilitated the formation of lamellar gel phase, which led to a stable ternary system. Glycerin was found to be the most optimal agent to prepare a cleansing foam with enhanced stability.

Cleansing foam이라 불리는 지방산 칼륨 cream soap은 crystal gel 구조로 이루어져 있어 유화계와는 달리 전단응력에 약하며 고온의 보관조건에서 쉽게 분리되는 특성을 보여준다. Crystal gel 구조는 지방산의 종류 및 비율, 중화도, polyol의 종류와 사용량에 따라 크게 영향을 받는다. Crystal gel 구조에 미치는 이들의 영향을 조사하기 위해 water/potassium hydroxide (KOH)/fatty acid ternary system에서 실험을 실시하였다. Differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) 측정 결과 myristic acid (MA) : stearic acid (SA) = 3 : 1 비율에서 공융점(eutectic point)를 갖고 이 혼합비가 가장 안전한 삼성분계(ternary system)를 만든다는 것을 발견했다. 점도 측정과 편광현미경 (POM) 관찰 결과 중화도는 75% 부근이 최적이라고 판단된다. 삼성분계의 melting point (Tm)이 보관온도보다 높을 때, 그리고 crystal phase가 lamellar gel phase로 상 전이가 일어날 때 안정하나 지방산 함량의 증가는 안정성에 거의 영향을 미치지 않는다. 삼성분계에 polyol의 첨가는 Tm을 변화시키고 상전이를 일으키는데 중요한 역할을 한다. 클렌징폼의 구조는 저온 주사전자현미경 (Cryo-SEM), 소각 및 광각 X-선 산란 (SAXS, WAXS) 분석으로 규명하였다. Butylene glycol (BG), propylene glycol (PG), dipropylene glycol (DPG)은 Tm을 낮추어주며 lamellar gel phase 형성을 어렵게 하는 반면 glycerin, PEG-400, sorbitol은 Tm을 상승시키고 lamellar gel phase 형성을 용이하게 하며 안정한 삼성분계를 만든다.

Keywords

References

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