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A Study of the Food Culture in the Late Joseon Dynasty through Eumsikjeoljo (飮食節造)

「음식절조(飮食節造)」를 통해 본 조선시대 후기의 음식문화에 대한 고찰

  • Received : 2020.11.04
  • Accepted : 2020.12.30
  • Published : 2021.02.28

Abstract

Eumsikjeoljo (integrity with food) originally came from the Andong district, where the Goseong Yi clan inherited a cookbook from their ancestor Lee Jeong-Rong (1798~1871). The cookbook was written in an antiquated style and is estimated to have been written around the year 1865. Details of the era and authorship are seldom available for the extant ancient cookbooks. The authors of these books and the period during which these books were precisely written were studied through the Eumsikjeoljo which is a repository of 46 cooking disciplines. Of these 10 deal with the practice of traditional Korean crispy snack making, 4 with rice cake making, 3 of the yeonbyeong kind, 19 examples of Korean side dish making, 6 recipes of the kimchi variety, 2 examples of paste-based recipes, and 2 instances of instructions on how to make vinegar-based extracts. Also, in Eumsikjeoljo, there are descriptions of 29 different ways to brew rice wine. Of these, Danyang wine among the Leehwa wines and 13 others account for over 44% of the content. Leeyang wine and Sogok wine are represented by 10 different varieties and constitute around 34% of the entries. Samyang wine and Baek-il wine, along with 6 others, constitute 21% of the entries. The secret recipes of the Goseong Yi clan in the Andong district were recorded so that they could be transferred to the descendants of the clan. An inspection of the recipes and wine brewing techniques recorded in Eumsikjeoljo provides a clearer picture of the mid-1800s Andong noble family's traditional food habits and simultaneously sheds light on the late Joseon dynasty's food culture.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

본 연구는 2021년 재단법인 궁중음식문화재단 음식문화학술연구사업의 지원을 받아 수행하였습니다.

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