Clean Technology (청정기술)

The Korean Society of Clean Technology (한국청정기술학회)
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Functional Cosmetic Characteristics of Grape Skin Extract

포도껍질 추출물의 기능성 화장품 소재 특성

  • Shin, Eun Min (Department of Chemical Engineering and ERI, Gyeongsang National University) ;
  • Kim, Ju Yeon (Department of Chemical Engineering and ERI, Gyeongsang National University) ;
  • Park, Si Eun (Department of Chemical Engineering and ERI, Gyeongsang National University) ;
  • Kim, Chang-Joon (Department of Chemical Engineering and ERI, Gyeongsang National University)
  • 신은민 (경상국립대학교 화학공학과 및 공학연구원) ;
  • 김주연 (경상국립대학교 화학공학과 및 공학연구원) ;
  • 박시은 (경상국립대학교 화학공학과 및 공학연구원) ;
  • 김창준 (경상국립대학교 화학공학과 및 공학연구원)
  • Received : 2021.11.09
  • Accepted : 2021.11.26
  • Published : 2021.12.31
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Abstract

Grape skins are a natural resource rich in antioxidants, but people only eat grape flesh and have discarded the skins. This study investigated the possibility of using grape skin extract as a raw material for functional cosmetics. The dried grape skin powder was put in distilled water and stirred for 1 h, and then the supernatant separated from the solid was used as an extract. The extract yield was 17.8 ~ 31.4%, and the total flavonoid and polyphenol contents in the extract were 1.8 ~ 2.5 mg-QE g-extract-1 and 16.9 ~ 20.3 mg-GAE g-extract-1, respectively. The extract effectively removed radicals of DPPH and ABTS, and the degree of scavenging increased with the concentration of the extract. The extract inhibited the collagen hydrolysis activity of collagenase, and the activity inhibition rate increased to 84.2% as the extract concentration increased. However, notable inhibition of tyrosinase by the extract was not found. As the extract of Chamaecyparis obtusa was added to the grape-skin extract, the tyrosinase inhibition rate increased, but the DPPH radical scavenging activity decreased. This study found that grape skin extract has a high antioxidant capacity and anti-wrinkle effect but a low whitening effect. However, by mixing the grape skin extract with the extract of C. obtusa in an optimal ratio, the whitening effect was improved with excellent antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effects.

포도껍질은 항산화 물질을 다량 함유한 유용자원임에도 불구하고 사람들은 포도의 과육만 섭취하고 포도껍질을 폐기하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 포도껍질 추출물을 기능성 화장품 원료로의 사용 가능성을 조사하였다. 건조된 포도껍질 분말을 증류수에 넣고 1 h 동안 교반시킨 후 고형물로부터 분리된 상등액을 추출물로 사용하였다. 추출 수율은 17.8 ~ 31.4%였고 추출물에 함유된 총 플라보노이드와 폴리페놀 함량은 각각 1.8 ~ 2.5 mg-QE g-extract-1와 16.9 ~ 20.3 mg-GAE g-extract-1였다. 추출물은 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH)와 Azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTSTM) 라디칼을 효과적으로 제거하였고 소거정도는 추출물 농도에 따라 증가하였다. Collagenase의 콜라겐 가수분해 활성이 추출물에 의해 저해를 받았고 추출물 농도 증가에 따라 활성 저해율이 84.2%까지 증가하였다. 그러나 추출물에 의한 tyrosinase 활성 저해가 크지 않았다. 추출물에 편백수를 첨가함에 따라 tyrosinase 활성 저해율이 높아졌으나 DPPH 라디칼 소거활성은 오히려 감소하였다. 본 연구를 통하여 포도껍질 추출물은 항산화능과 주름개선 효능이 높은 반면 미백 효능은 낮은 것으로 확인되었다. 추출물에 편백수를 적절히 혼합함으로써 항산화능과 주름개선 효능이 우수할 뿐만 아니라 미백 효능도 향상되었다.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

이 성과는 정부(과학기술정보통신부)의 재원으로 한국연구재단의 지원을 받아 수행된 연구임(2020R1F1A1054433).

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