Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회지)

The Korean Society of Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회)
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Skin Improvement Effects and Development of Liposome Capsule Technology Using Centella Asiatica Extract Powder

센텔라아시아티카정량추출물의 리포좀 캡슐기술 개발과 피부개선효과

  • 김성장 (리더스코스메틱(주) 피부과학연구소) ;
  • 주연정 (리더스코스메틱(주) 피부과학연구소) ;
  • 김인영 ((주)바이오뷰텍 기술연구소)
  • Received : 2020.09.24
  • Accepted : 2020.10.30
  • Published : 2020.10.31
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Abstract

In this study, we report the results of a study on the clinical evaluation of wrinkle improvement by developing a method for liposome of high-purity Centella asiatica extract used in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, and a cream using the same. In order to make Centellasome-10EX stabilizing centella asiatica extract in liposome lamella vesicle, it could be completed using 5% hydrogenated lecithin and 2% sucrose distearate. The appearance of Centellasome-10EX was a creamy form of low viscosity, the color was pale yellow, and the odor had the inherent odor of the raw material. The pH was about 6.12, the specific gravity was 1.09, and the acid value was about 0.35. The content of the main constituents of centella asiatica extract contained in the liposome vesicle contains 10,800 ppm of asiatic acid, 10,900 ppm of asiaticoside, 6,000 ppm of madecasic acid, and 1,600 ppm of madecassoside, and long-term storage. There was no discoloration even at the time, and it was found that the main component remained stable thermodynamically. To mechanistically analyze the structure of the liposome vesicle of Centellasome-10EX, as a result of observation with a transmission electron microscope (Cryo-TEM), the multilayer vesicles are formed and filled with moisture, and there are 10 to 60 multilayers around it. It was confirmed that the liposome lamella vesicle was formed. As a clinical trial (in-vivo) test, the moisturizing effect of centellasome cream after application for 5 weeks was 28.3%, which was significantly increased compared to placebo. The skin elasticity effect was 13.6%, which significantly increased the moisturizing power than the placebo. The effect of improving fine wrinkles around the eyes was improved by 23.52% compared to placebo cream. Through the results of this study, it was possible to study the formulation and manufacturing method for encapsulation and stabilization of the developed Centellasome-10EX in the liposome vesicle. It is expected that the results obtained through clinical research on the wrinkle improvement effect of the cream using this can be widely used to study skin science in the cosmetic industry and to develop high-quality cosmetics with high efficacy.

본 연구에서는 의약품과 화장품에 사용되는 고순도의 센텔라아시아티카정량추출물을 리포좀화하는 방법과 이를 이용한 크림을 개발하여 주름개선에 대한 in-vivo 임상평가에 대하여 연구한 결과를 보고한다. 리포좀 라멜라 베지클에 센텔라아사아티카정량추출물을 안정화시킨 센텔라좀-10EX을 만들기 위하여, 5%의 하이드로제네이티드레시틴과 2%의 수크로오스다이스테아레이트를 사용하여 완성시킬 수 있었다. 센텔라좀-10EX의 외관은 저점성의 크림상, 색상은 엷은 황색, 냄새는 원료 본연의 고유취가 있었다. pH는 약 6.12 이었으며, 비중은 1.09, 산가는 약 0.35이었다. 리포좀 베지클에 함유된 센텔라아시아티카정량추출물의 주성분의 함량은 10,800ppm의 아시아틱애씨드, 10,900ppm의 아시아티코사이드, 6,000ppm의 마테카식애씨드, 1,600ppm의 마데카소사이드가 함유하고 있으며, 장기간 보관 시에도 변색이 없었고, 열역학적으로 주성분이 안정하게 유지되고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 센텔라좀-10EX의 리포좀 베지클의 구조를 메커니즘 적으로 분석하기 위하여, 투과전자현미경 (Cryo-TEM)으로 관찰한 결과 다중층막이 형성되어 수분이 채워져 있고, 그 주변에는 10~60여층의 다중층의 리포좀 라멜라 베지클 형성되었음을 확인하였다. 임상시험(in-vivo)으로써, 센텔라좀 크림의 5주동안 바른 후의 보습효과는 28.3%로 플라세보 보다 유의차 있게 증가되었다. 피부탄력효과는 13.6%로 플라세보 보다 유의차 있게 보습력이 증가되었다. 눈가의 피부잔주름 개선효과는 플라세보 크림보다 23.52%가 개선되었다. 이 연구 결과를 통하여 개발된 센텔라좀-10EX의 리포좀 베지클에 봉입 안정화하는 처방과 제조방법에 대하여 연구할 수 있었으며, 이를 이용한 크림에 대한 주름개선효과 등의 임상연구를 통하여 얻어진 결과들이 화장품 산업에 있어서 피부과학을 연구하고, 고 효능을 가진 고품격 화장품을 개발하는데 폭넓게 활용될 수 있을 것으로 기대한다.

Keywords

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