Journal of Conservation Science (보존과학회지)

The Korean Society Of Conservation Science For Cultural Heritage (한국문화재보존과학회)
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Experimental Reproduction of Cosmetic Powders Excavated from the Tomb of Princess Hwahyup

화협옹주묘 출토 화장분의 재현연구

  • Lee, Min Hye (Department of Heritage Conservation and Restoration, Graduate School of Cultural Heritage, Korea National University of Cultural Heritage) ;
  • Lee, Han Hyoung (Department of Heritage Conservation and Restoration, Graduate School of Cultural Heritage, Korea National University of Cultural Heritage) ;
  • Chung, Yong Jae (Department of Heritage Conservation and Restoration, Graduate School of Cultural Heritage, Korea National University of Cultural Heritage) ;
  • Lee, Chae Hoon (Department of Heritage Conservation and Restoration, Graduate School of Cultural Heritage, Korea National University of Cultural Heritage) ;
  • Baek, Woon Ki (LG Household & Health Care) ;
  • Kim, Hyoyun (Collection Management Division, National Palace Museum of Korea)
  • 이민혜 (한국전통문화대학교 문화유산전문대학원 문화재수리기술학과) ;
  • 이한형 (한국전통문화대학교 문화유산전문대학원 문화재수리기술학과) ;
  • 정용재 (한국전통문화대학교 문화유산전문대학원 문화재수리기술학과) ;
  • 이채훈 (한국전통문화대학교 문화유산전문대학원 문화재수리기술학과) ;
  • 백운기 (LG생활건강 기술연구원) ;
  • 김효윤 (국립고궁박물관 유물과학과)
  • Received : 2020.06.02
  • Accepted : 2020.06.16
  • Published : 2020.06.20
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Abstract

In this study, we tried to reproduce some of the cosmetics from the Joseon period based on the previous analysis of the cosmetics excavated from the tomb of Princess Hwahyup. The two cosmetic powders, the white powder consisting of lead(II) carbonate and talc and the cinnabar-based red powder, were reproduced according to the records from the 6th to the 19th centuries. We also studied the degradation profiles of these reproduced samples by comparison of XRD patterns. Basic lead carbonate of the reproduced white powder turned into lead(II) carbonate, while the reproduced red powder showed different crystalline structure from the excavated cosmetics even after the degradation. Results of the evaluation tests showed that these reproduced cosmetics fell short of the standards set for the modern-day cosmetics, but based on their mixing ratio, the spreadability and oil absorption capacity of some samples of the reproduced white powder were found to be similar to those of the modern cosmetics.

본 연구에서는 조선시대 화협옹주묘 출토 화장품에 대한 선행 연구의 분석결과와 문헌상의 화장품 제법에 대한 기록을 바탕으로 조선시대 화장분 일부를 재현하고 과학적 분석 및 성능 평가를 수행하였다. 연구 대상 출토 화장분은 탄산납과 활석으로 이루어진 백색분과 주사로 이루어진 적색분이다. 재현 백색분은 탄산납의 원료로 염기성탄산납인 연백을 이용하였으며, 열화 후 출토 백색분과 유사한 결정구조로 변화되었다. 주사, 명반, 노른자를 이용하여 재현한 적색분은 열화 후에도 출토품의 결정구조와는 차이를 보였으며, 출토 적색분은 순수한 주사로 제조되었거나 유기물 부패에 의해 현재의 결정구조를 갖게 된 것으로 추정하였다. 재현 화장분의 기능성을 평가한 결과, 발색력은 현대 화장품의 기준에는 미치지 못하였으나 재현 백색분의 발림성과 흡유능은 배합비율에 따라 일부 시료에서 현대 화장품과 유사한 수준으로 평가되었다.

Keywords

References

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