DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

초임계 추출 느릅나무 성분을 함유한 고 보습 화장품 제형에 대한 평가 연구

A study on the Formulation of high-moisturizing Cosmetics containing Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid extract

  • 구은비 ((주)동구바이오제약 중앙연구소) ;
  • 김한규 ((주)동구바이오제약 중앙연구소) ;
  • 김윤식 (네비팜 R&D센터) ;
  • 추의진 ((주)동구바이오제약 중앙연구소)
  • 투고 : 2020.02.14
  • 심사 : 2020.05.20
  • 발행 : 2020.05.28

초록

항균, 항산화, 항염증 효능의 기능성 원료로써 효능이 확인된 느릅나무 추출물을 포함하는 화장품 개발을 위한 연구와 이 화장품의 아토피피부염과 같은 건조하고 민감한 피부 개선 효능에 대한 연구를 수행하였다. 원료 물질인 느릅나무 초임계 추출박 60%주정 추출물(USCFR)과 초임계 추출물(USCF), 이를 포함하는 예비제형 DKBP-1903 (겔)에 대한 독성시험을 수행한 결과 '무독성'으로 판정되었다. 이를 토대로 조제한 각 제형별 화장품 로션, 크림, 겔에 대한 안정성 시험 결과, 크림과 겔이 더 우수한 안정성을 보였고 안정성이 확보된 두 가지 제형에 대해 아토피 피부염 개선 효능 입증을 위한 화장품 효능시험으로 48시간 보습지속력 시험과 건조함에 의한 소양감개선 시험을 진행한 결과, 크림과 겔 도포 24시간 후 82.9%, 92.32%의 피부각질층 수분함량 개선율을 보였고 2주 후부터 소양감 개선 효과를 나타냈다. 이러한 결과를 통해 크림과 겔 모두 비교적 안전한 보습제로써 건조하고 민감한 피부에 도움을 줄 수 있는 것으로 판단된다.

This study was performed to develop the cosmetics containing extract of U.davidiana, which has been confirmed as a functional ingredient of anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects, and also to evaluate the improvement effects of dry and sensitive skin such as atopic dermatitis. Toxicity tests of the Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid residue 60% EtOH extracts(USCFR), Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid extracts(USCF) and preliminary formulations, DKBP-1903(gel), containing the USCFR and USCF were determined to be 'Non-toxic'. Based on this, the stability test of the lotion, cream, gel formulation was conducted and the results showed that cream and gel formulation were stable. A 48-hour moisturizing sustainability test and the improvement test on the pruritus caused by dryness were selected for the cosmetic efficacy test to evaluate the improvement of atopic dermatitis and as a result both cream and gel have been found to be relatively safe moisturizers that can help dry and sensitive skin.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Lebwohl M. & Herrmann L. G. (2005). Impaired skin barrier function in dermatologic disease and repair with moisturization. Cuutis 76(Suppl.6), 7-12.
  2. F. Rousset, J. Rorbert, M. Andary, J. Bonnin, G. Souile, I. Chretien, F. Briere, J. Pene & J. Devries. (1991). Shifts in Interleukin-4 and Interferon-${\gamma}$ Production by T cells of Patients with Elevated Serum IgE Levels and the Modulatory Effects of these Lymphokines on Spontaneous IgE Synthesis. The Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 87(1), 58-69. DOI : 10.1016/0091-6749(91)90213-8
  3. Lebwohl M. & Herrmann L. G. (2005). Impaired skin barrier function in dermatologic disease and repair with moisturization. Cuutis 76(Suppl.6), 7-12.
  4. Krakowski A. C., Eichenfield L. F. & Dohil M. A. (2008). Management of atopic dermatitis in the pediatric population. Prediatrics, 122(4), 812-824. DOI: 10.1542/peds.2007-2232.
  5. Nicol, N. H. & Boguniewicz, M. (2008). Successful strategies in atopic dermatitis management. Dermatol Nurs. 3-18.
  6. J. K. Yang & K. W. Jung. (2010). Composition for improving atopic dermatitis comprising hot water extract of green tea and ethanol extract of green tea. Institute of Hadong Green Tea, Gyeungsang National University Office of Academy and Industry Collaboration.
  7. Imokawa G. et al. (1991). Decreased level of ceramides in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis: an etiologic factor in atopic dry skin? J Invest Dermatol, 96, 523-526. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12470233
  8. Imokawa G. (2001). Lipid abnormalities in atopic dermatitis. J Am Acad Dermatol. 45,S29-S32. https://doi.org/10.1067/mjd.2001.117020
  9. Moncrieff G., Cork M., Lawton S., Kokiet S., Daly C. & Clark C. (2013). Use of emollients in dry-skin conditions: consensus statement. Clin Exp Dermatol, 38, 231-238. https://doi.org/10.1111/ced.12104
  10. Norito KATOH et al. (2019). Clinical practice guidelines for the management of atopic dermatitis 2018. Journal of Dermatology, 1-49. DOI: 10.1111/1346-8138.15090
  11. White-Chu E. F. & Reddy M. (2011). Dry skin in the elderly: complexities of a common problem. Clin Dermatol, 29, 37-42. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clindermatol.2010.07.005
  12. Guenther L. et al. (2012). Pathway to dry skin prevention and treatment. J Cutan Med Surg, 16, 23-31. https://doi.org/10.1177/120347541201600106
  13. Lichterfeld A., Hauss A., Surber C., Peters T., Blume-Peytavi U. & Kottner J. (2015). Evidence-based skin care: a systematic literature review and the development of a basic skin care algorithm. J Wound Ostomy Continence Nurs, 42, 501-524. https://doi.org/10.1097/WON.0000000000000162
  14. Watson W. & Kapur S. (2011). Atopic dermatitis. Allergy Asthma. Clin Immunol, 7(Suppl 1), S4. DOI: 10.1186/1710-1492-7-S1-S4
  15. Schneider L. et al. (2013). Atopic dermatitis: a practice parameter update 2012. J Allergy Clin Immunol, 131, 295-299. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaci.2012.12.672
  16. Eichenfield L. F., Ahluwalia J., Waldman A., Borok J., Udkoff J. & Boguniewicz M. (2017). Current guidelines for the evaluation and management of atopic dermatitis: a comparison of the Joint Task Force Practice Parameter and American Academy of Dermatology guidelines. J Allergy Clin Immunol, 139, S49-S57. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaci.2017.01.009
  17. H. Kim et al. (2012). Effect of bathing on atopic dermatitis during the summer season. Asia Pac Allergy, 2, 269-274. https://doi.org/10.5415/apallergy.2012.2.4.269
  18. Loden M. (1995). Biophysical properties of dry atopic and normal skin with special reference to effects of skin care product. Acta Derm Venereol, 192, 1-48.
  19. Loden M., Acdersson A. C. & Lindbeerg M. (1999). Improvement in skin barrier function in patients with atopic dermatitis after treatment with a moisturizing cream(Canoderm). Br J Dermatol, 140, 264-267. DOI : 10.15207/JKCS.2018.9.8.225
  20. E. B. Lee, K. W. Jung, C. S. Jung & O. K. Kim. (1995). The Influence of Methanol Extract of Ulmus davidianavar. japonica Cortex on Gastric Erosion and Ulcer and Paw Edema in Rats, Yakhak Hoeji, 39, 671-675.
  21. S. K. Cho, S. G. Lee & C. J. Kim. (1996). Anti-inflammatory and analgesic of Water Extract of Root Bark of Ulmus parvifolia. Korean Journal of Phamacognosy, 27, 274-281. DOI: 10.5897/AJB10.649
  22. C. D. Jun et al. (1998). Inhibition of nitric oxide synthesis by butanol fraction of the methanol extract of Ulmus davidiana in murine macrophages, Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 62, 129-135. DOI: 10.1016/s0378-8741(98)00063-4
  23. Y. J. Lee & J. P. Han. (2000). Antioxidative Activities and Nitric Scavenging Abilities of Extracts from Ulmus davidiana. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 29, 893-899.
  24. M. McHugh, V. Krukonis & H. Brenner. (1994). Supercritical fluid extraction: Principles and practice, 2nd ed, United States of America : Butterworth-Heinemann, 1-16.
  25. G. G. Hoyer. (1985). Extraction with supercritical fluids: why, how and so what, Chemtech, 15, 440-448.
  26. E. Stahl, K. W. Quirin & D. Gerard. (1988). Dense gases for extraction and refining. Springer Verlag, Berlin, Germany, 173.
  27. Y. H. Choi et al. (1999). Selective extraction of cytotoxic substances from medicinal plants using supercritical carbon dioxide. Korean Journal of Phamacognosy, 30, 59-64.
  28. J. H. Seo, Y. J. Lee, Y. I. Jo, J. Y. Ko, M. J. Mun, K. H. Park & S. E. Choi. (2018). Anti-fungal, anti-oxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects of supercritical fluid extracts from Ulmus davidiana. Journal of the Korea Convergence Society, 9(8), 22.
  29. M. J. Mun, K. H. Park & S. E. Choi. (2018). Biological activity of supercritical extraction residue 60% ethanolic extracts from Ulmus davidiana . Journal of the Korea Convergence Society, 8(5), 29-36. DOI: http://doi.org/10.22156/CS4SMB.2018.8.5.029