Korea Journal of Cosmetic Science

대한화장품학회 (Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)
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Repairing Damaged Hair Using Pentapeptides of Various Amino Acid Sequences with Crosslinking Reaction

  • 투고 : 2020.06.11
  • 심사 : 2020.08.28
  • 발행 : 2020.12.30
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초록

The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of various pentapeptides on hair repair depending on the characteristics of comprising amino acids using crosslinking agents in hair. Total ten peptides were synthesized with two kinds of amino acids respectively, of which were previously categorized according to R group of the amino acids contributing to the characteristic of each peptide: STTSS (Ser-Thr-Thr-Ser-Ser), LIILL (Leu-Ile-Ile-Leu-Leu), CMMCC (Cys-Met-Met-Cys-Cys), DEEDD (Asp-Glu-Glu-Asp-Asp), RKKRR (Arg-Lys-Lys-Arg-Arg), TAMRA-STTSS, TAMRA-LIILL, TAMRA-CMMCC, TAMRA-DEEDD, and TAMRA-RKKRR. Pentapeptide alone, or pentapeptides with crosslinking agents such as polymeric carbodiimide (PCI) and 1-ethyl-3-(3-dimethylaminopropyl) carbodiimide (EDC) were treated to chemically damaged hair. Hair diameter and break strength (N = 40/case) were measured to calculate tensile strength of hair for computing hair repair ratio, and fluorescence yields (N = 20/case) were collected for hair treated with TAMRA-peptides. The tensile strength of hair treated with pentapeptides alone, or pentapeptides with cross-linking agents is consistent with the fluorescence yield from the microscope images of the cross-sectioned hair in vision and in numerical values. Pentapeptides consisting of hydrophobic amino acids (LIILL), amino acids with sulfur (CMMCC), and basic amino acids (RKKRR) increased the tensile strength in perm-damaged hair. Pentapeptides with no extra carboxyl/amine groups in R group of amino acids resulted in no significant differences in hair strength and fluorescence yield among hairs treated with alone and with crosslinkers. Pentapeptides with extra carboxyl groups or amine groups enabled further strengthening of hair due to increased bonds within the hair after carbodiimide coupling reaction. The hair repairs of pentapeptides with various amino acid sequences were studied using crosslinking. Depending on the physical characteristics of comprising amino acids, the restoration of damaged hair was observed with tensile strength of hair and fluorescence signals upon cross-sectioned hair in parallel to possibly understand the binding tendency of each pentapeptide within the hair.

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참고문헌

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