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Material Analysis of the late 19th century to 20th century Women's Hats Ornaments in National Folk Museum of Korea

국립민속박물관 소장 19세기 말~20세기 여성용 쓰개 장식의 재질분석

  • Lee, Sae Rom (Conservation Laboratory, National Folk Museum of Korea) ;
  • Oh, Joon Suk (Conservation Laboratory, National Folk Museum of Korea) ;
  • Hwang, Min Young (Conservation Laboratory, National Folk Museum of Korea)
  • 이새롬 (국립민속박물관 보존과학실) ;
  • 오준석 (국립민속박물관 보존과학실) ;
  • 황민영 (국립민속박물관 보존과학실)
  • Received : 2019.03.15
  • Accepted : 2019.04.18
  • Published : 2019.04.20

Abstract

The material composition of 19 ornaments used for women's hats in the late $19^{th}$ century to $20^{th}$ century, which are kept at National Folk Museum of Korea, was analyzed using SEM-EDS. Sixteen ornaments were composed of $Na_2O$ and PbO, which form adifferent lead glass from those that have been excavated or handed down since ancient times in Korea. The chemical composition analysis has confirmed that two ornaments belong to the mixed alkali glass, while one belongs to the potash glass IIItype. This lead glass is similar in composition to the Japanese craft lead glass that was imported to Joseon during the Japanese colonial era. It is estimated that the lead glass ornaments used in women's hats in the late $19^{th}$ century to $20^{th}$ century were made from raw materials imported from Japan or made from lead glass used for crafts in Japan. This shows that jewelry such as jade and amber, which have been traditionally used in the modern and present ages, have been replaced by craft lead glass imported from Japan.

국립민속박물관에서 소장하고 있는 19세기 말~20세기 여성용 쓰개에 사용된 장식 19점에 대하여 SEM-EDS로 조성을 분석하였다. 쓰개 장식 16점은 융제 성분인 $Na_2O$와 PbO를 함유하고 있어 한국의 고대부터 출토되거나 전승되어온 납유리와 조성이 다른 유형의 납유리였다. 쓰개 장식 2점은 $Na_2O$$K_2O$가 3% 혹은 5% 이상 함유한 알칼리혼합유리, 1점은 CaO를 5% 이상 함유한 포타쉬유리 III형으로 분류되었다. 이 중 납유리는 일제강점기 조선에 수입된 일본의 공예용 납유리와 조성이 유사하여, 19세기 말~20세기 여성용 쓰개 중 납유리를 사용한 장식은 원료를 일본에서 수입하였거나 조선 내 일본인 기술로 생산한 공예용 납유리로 제작된 것으로 추정된다. 이를 통해 근현대에 들어서 전통적으로 사용되어온 쓰개 장식의 사용된 옥이나 호박과 같은 보석이 일본에서 수입된 공예용 납유리로 대체되어 새롭게 사용되었음을 보여주고 있다.

Keywords

References

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