대한화장품학회지 (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)

  • 제44권2호
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  • Pages.133-139
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  • 2018
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  • 1226-2587(pISSN)
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  • 2288-9507(eISSN)
대한화장품학회 (Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)
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카르보디이미드 반응과 실란 커플링을 이용한 모발강화 효과

Hair Strengthening Effect of Silane Coupling and Carbodiimide Chemistry

  • 투고 : 2018.03.14
  • 심사 : 2018.06.05
  • 발행 : 2018.06.30
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초록

화학적으로 손상된 모발은 모발 자체의 물리적 특성이 약해져서 일상생활 중에 외부 자극에 취약하다. 본 연구의 목적은 모발 케라틴 단백질간의 화학적 결합이 모발의 인장강도를 회복이 반복적인 빗질 하에서 더 이상의 모발 악화를 방지하는지 여부를 결정하는 데 있다. 손상된 모발은 펌 시술을 통해 얻었다. 펌 손상 모발을 관능성 가교제인 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES)을 이용하여 실란 커플링 및 카르보디이미드 반응을 통해 모발 내부에 가교 결합이 형성되도록 처리하였다. 인장 강도, 영률 및 고원 응력(plateau stress)을 포함한 물리적 특성을 측정하여 내부 가교 결합의 효과를 확인하였고, 가교 결합의 존재는 Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) 분광법으로 확인하였다. 모발 절단 및 갈라짐의 정도는 건조 상태 모발의 반복적 빗질 시험으로 평가하였다. 결과적으로 화학적으로 손상된 모발의 물리적 성질은 내부 가교 결합으로 회복되었다. APTES의 실란 커플링 및 카르보디이미드 반응의 결합은 FT-IR 스펙트럼으로 확인하였다. 열을 가하면서 반복적으로 빗어 낸 후 모발의 절단 및 갈라짐 방지가 확인되었다. 인간의 모발은 펌 시술을 포함한 화학적 손상으로 약화될 수 있으므로 이러한 특성을 복원하는 것은 헤어 케어 업계의 주요 과제다. 본 연구에서는 화학적 결합을 통해 손상된 모발의 내부에 가교 결합 형성이 모발의 건강을 회복시키는 강력한 방법이 될 수 있음을 시사한다.

Chemically damaged hair is vulnerable to external stimuli in daily life due to the weakened physical properties of the hair strand itself. The purpose of this work was to determine whether chemical conjugation between hair keratin proteins restores tensile strength and thus results inpreventing further deterioration under repeated combing. A model damaged hair tress was produced by a typical perm-process. Then, it was internally crosslinked by the bifunctional crosslinker (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (APTES), via both silane coupling and carbodiimide chemistry. Physical properties, including tensile strength, Young's modulus, and plateau stress, were measured to verify the effect of internal crosslinking, and the existence of crosslinking was verified by Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy. The degrees of hair breakage and split ends were evaluated by repeated combing-drying tests. Physical properties of chemically damaged hair were restored by internal crosslinking. Successful crosslinking of APTES via both silane coupling and carbodiimide chemistry was verified by FT-IR spectra. Prevention of breakage and split ends after repeated combing with heat was observed. Human hair can be weakened by chemical damage including perm-processing, so restoring such properties is a major issue in the hair care industry. This work shows that internal crosslinking of damaged hair via chemical conjugation would be a potent method to restore the healthy hair.

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참고문헌

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