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적색계 천연염료를 이용한 견직물 무매염 염색의 염색성

Color Characteristics of Silk Fabrics Dyed with Natural Red Dyes Without a Mordant

  • 김효진 (한국생산기술연구원 스마트섬유그룹) ;
  • 이주현 (연세대학교 의류환경학과)
  • Kim, Hyo-Jin (Smart Textiles R&D Group, Korea Institute of Industrial Technology) ;
  • Lee, Joo-Hyeon (Department of Clothing & Textiles, Yonsei University)
  • 투고 : 2018.09.28
  • 심사 : 2018.12.20
  • 발행 : 2018.12.28

초록

본 연구의 목적은 적색계 천연염료를 이용한 견직물의 무매염 염색을 다룬 국내논문들을 고찰하여 무매염 염색의 염색성을 알아보는 것이다. 연구대상인 천연염재는 자색 고구마, 봉선화, 오디, 광나무 열매, 구아바 잎, 단삼, 히비스커스 꽃, 복숭아나무 전정가지로 총 8가지이다. 염색실험의 결과는 색차식에 의하여 $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, C 및 ${\Delta}E^*$와 Munsell표에 의한 H V/C, Kubelka Munk식에 따라 K/S값을 산출하여 표면색을 측정하여 살펴보았다. 염색실험 변인은 염액농도, 염색온도, 염색시간, 염색반복횟수이며, 변인의 변화에 따라 염색성과 색채특성을 알아보았다. 문헌고찰 결과, 염색실험 변인은 견직물에 대한 천연염료의 염착성과 상관관계가 있을 뿐만 아니라 적색 발현에도 상관관계가 있었다. 본 연구를 통해 천연염색 과정에서 환경오염을 일으키는 반복적인 염색이나 매염제 사용 등을 하지 않아도 적색이 다양하게 발현되고 염색성도 우수할 수 있음을 보였다.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the coloring properties of non-mordant dyes by examining local literature on silk fabric dyeing using red-colored natural dyes. Natural dyes can be prepared from the following 8 materials: purple-fleshed sweet potato, Impatiens balsamina, mulberry, fruits of Ligustrum japonicum Thunb, guava leaves, dansam, hibiscus flowers, and pruned branches of Prunus persica. To examine the surface color calculated $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, ${\Delta}E^*$, and K/S value and H V/C. The variables considered in the dyeing experiment were dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and number of dyeing iterations, which were varied to evaluate the dyeing properties and color characteristics. As a result, the abovementioned variables, dye affinity, and red color expression were directly proportional to one another. In this study, it was found that red coloring can be obtained with natural dyes; moreover, excellent dyeing was achieved without the need for repeated dyeing or mordanting processes, which cause environmental pollution.

키워드

Table 1. Characteristics of Natural Dyestuffs

DJTJBT_2018_v16n12_593_t0001.png 이미지

Table 2. Characteristics of fabrics

DJTJBT_2018_v16n12_593_t0002.png 이미지

Table 3. Pigment extraction methods

DJTJBT_2018_v16n12_593_t0003.png 이미지

Table 4. H V/C and L*, a*, b* values of dyed silk fabrics*

DJTJBT_2018_v16n12_593_t0004.png 이미지

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