Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스)

The Korean Society of Fashion Business (한국패션비즈니스학회)
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A Study on the Expression Types of Cable Knitting

케이블 니팅의 표현 유형에 관한 연구

  • 김성달 (건국대학교 예술디자인대학 리빙디자인학과)
  • Received : 2018.08.26
  • Accepted : 2018.10.29
  • Published : 2018.11.30
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Abstract

Cable knitting, one of the most representative structures of knitwear has been applied to a number of knit items in a variety of expressions every season. The purpose of this study is to analyze the various types of expressions applied with cable knitting techniques to make the necessary data for planning cable knit designs. The types of cable knitting were devide into two categories which are based on the cable knitting pattern and structure. Based on the pattern, firstly, formal type is a reproduction of traditional Aran knit style and is usually applied to a practical and comfortable timeless knit product. Secondly, informal type is irregular applied to patterns and directions to highlight the dynamics of cable patterns. Thirdly, contrasting type emphasizes the cable pattern by contrasting the color of the part of the cable pattern. Fourthly, figurative type is the expression of the conceptual motifs and using the cable knit pattern itself as motif. Based on the structure, firstly, open type is to emphasize patterns and spaces by utilizing open spaces created by the intersection of cabling stitches. Secondly, decorative type is to enhance the ornamental effect of cable knitting by various methods and other subsidiary materials. Thirdly, avant-garde type is applied in various ways with exaggerated volumes or textures using the three-dimensional effects of cable knitting. Through this study, we look forward to the possibility of expressing the unique aesthetic characteristics of each of the various knitting techniques.

Keywords

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Figure 1. Cable Knitting Process (Gaughan, 2016, p.13)

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Figure 2. Ropes Cable (abramsbooks.tumblr.com)

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Figure 3. Braids Cable (dummies.com)

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Figure 6. Aran Jumper, 1936 (Rutt, 1987, p.195)

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Figure 7. Celtic Motif (ravelry.com)

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Figure 10. Irish Design House (theirishdesignhouse.com)

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Figure 12. Scott’s Sweaters (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 13. King Cole (pinterest.es)

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Figure 20. Belstaff (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 21. Yigal Azrouël (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 22. Christian Dior (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 30. Celine (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 31. Erludmila (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 35. Pringles of Scotland (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 36. Julien Macdonald (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 37. Laura Biagiotti (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 4. Horseshoes Cable (dummies.com)

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Figure 5. Diamond Cables (knittingkingdom.com)

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Figure 8. Lattice Cable Square (knittingpatternsgalore.com)

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Figure 9. Aran Honeycomb (knittingstitchpatterns.com)

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Figure 11. Max Mara (vogue.co.kr)

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Figure 14. Porter, M (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 15. J. Jill (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 16. Michael Kors (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 17. Townsen (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 18. Burberry (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 19. Junya Watanabe (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 23. Caroline Perisho (ravelry.com)

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Figure 24. Pamela Leung (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 25. Alexander Mcqueen (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 26. Ralph Lauren (pinterest.co.uk)

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Figure 27. Viktor & Rolf (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 28. Alexander Mcqueen Menswear (vogue.com)

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Figure 29. FLOR(pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 32. Tina's Handicraft (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 33. Fendi (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 34. Alexander Wang (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 38. Burberry Prorsum (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 39. Delpozo (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 40. Johan Ku (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 41. Sandra Backlund (forwardcouncil.com)

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Figure 42. Barbara Bui (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 43. Irina Shaposhnikova (pinterest.co.kr)

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Figure 44. Caroline Pambakian (pinterest.co.kr)

Table 1. Expression Types of Cable Knitting

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