Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture (한국식생활문화학회지)

Korean Society of Food Culture (한국식생활문화학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

The Research of Sugar's Application and Consumption Culture in the Modern Times' Cooking Book (1910-1948)

근대(1910-1948) 조리서 속 설탕의 활용과 소비문화 고찰

  • Kim, Mi-Hye (Department of Food and Nutrition, The Research Institute for Basic Sciences, Hoseo University)
  • 김미혜 (호서대학교 생명보건과학대학 식품영양학과 및 기초과학연구소)
  • Received : 2016.12.23
  • Accepted : 2017.05.29
  • Published : 2017.06.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This research analyzed consumer culture and usage of sugar in modern times based on 12 modern popular Korean cooking books with sugar recipes. Procedures were formed via textual analysis. The outcomes of the study can be summarized in brief statements. According to "Banchandeungsok", "Booinpilj", and "Chosunmoossangsinsikyorijebeob", sugar was utilized in 34 out of 663 or 5.1% of cooked foods during the 1910s to 1920s. According to books such as "Ganpyounchosunyorijebeob", "Ililhwalyongsinyoungyangyoribeob", "Chosun's cooking of the four seasons", "Halpaengyoungoo", "Chosunyorijebeob", and "Required reading for housewife", sugar was added to 165 out of 998 or 16.5% of cooked foods during the 1930s. According to the books like "Chosunyorihak", "Chosunyoribeob", and "Woorieumsik", sugar was an ingredient in 241 out of 756 or 31.9% of cooked foods during the 1940s. Sugar depicted within the 12 modern popular Korean cooking books primarily functioned as an alternative sweetener, starch, sweet enhancer, preservative, and seasoning. Similar to illustrated sugar from modern popular Korean cooking books, sugar has continually been favored by Korean cooks starting from the 1910s with 5.1% usage, the 1930s with 16.5% usage, and the 1940s with 31.9% usage. Despite its short history, sugar's culinary importance in Korea has been on the rise ever since the early 1900s. Although sugar is an exotic spice in Korea, it has gained social, cultural, and symbolic recognition as well as practicality within Korean food culture. Thus, it has become more internalized and familiarized as an inseparable sweetness that characterizes current Korean food.

Keywords

References

  1. Ahn MS. 1999. A Study on the Changes in Physico-Chemical properties of vegetables by Korean traditional cooking methods. Korean J. Dietary culture, 14(2):177-188
  2. Ahn MS. 2008. Culinary Science of Korean Food. Shinkwang publisher, Korea. pp 107-112
  3. Bang SY. 1939 Chosunyorijebeob (朝鮮料理製法). Hanseong library, Korea. pp 1-496
  4. Bingheogak Lee Clan. 1915 Booinpilji (夫人必知). In Lee Hyogee et al editors. 2010. Gyomoonsa, Korea. pp 1-32
  5. Bok HJ, Ahn SC. 2007. An Analytical Study on an Old Cooking Book, Dyusikbang (Kyugonyoram of the Korea University) J. Korean Soc. Food Cult. 22(5): 556-574
  6. Cho HJ. 1998. The traditional method for preparing Korean vegetable dishes-Especially about Namul. Seng Chae, SSam. Korean J. Soc. Food SCi. 14(4):339-347
  7. Cho JH. 1940 Chosunyoribeob (朝鮮料理法). Kyungseonggajeongyousook, Korea, pp 1-291
  8. Cho MS. Lee KR. 2011. A study on changes in the Cooking process of Gruel in Cook Books Written during last 100 years. Korean J. Food & Nutr., 24(4):589-601 https://doi.org/10.9799/ksfan.2011.24.4.589
  9. Cho SH. 2001. Bibliographical study on the "Kwa-Pyun" Korean traditional sweets. Bucheon University Collection of dissertations, 22: 173-179
  10. Chung HK, Yoon KS, Kim MH. 2015. Comparative Study of Cooking Methods in Suwoonjabbang vs Eumsikdimibang. J. Korean Soc. Food Cult.. 30(1): 41-53 https://doi.org/10.7318/KJFC/2015.30.1.041
  11. Ghosh S, Sudha ML. 2012. A review on polyols: new frontiers for health-based bakery products. Int J. Food Sci. Nutr., 63: 372-379 https://doi.org/10.3109/09637486.2011.627846
  12. Gyoungseong girls' normal school. 1936 Halpaengyoungoo (割烹硏究). Hanseong library, Korea, pp 1-496
  13. Hong SP. 1940 Chosunyorihak (朝鮮料理學). Jogwangsa, Korea, pp 1-265
  14. Hyeon YO. 2008. A Review on Marine Products Use of the Chosun Dynasty (1600s-1800s) Refer to the Documents: Based on Eumsikdimibang (飮食知味方), Jeungbosallimgyeongje (增補山林經濟), Gyuhapchongseo (閨閤叢書). Master's degree thesis. Kongji National University. pp 15-16
  15. Jo HR, Surh JH. 2015. Physicochemical and Sensory Properties of Baekseolgi Prepared with Different Combinations of Xylitol and Sucralose J. Korean Soc. Food Sci. Nutr., 44(9):1339-1346 https://doi.org/10.3746/jkfn.2015.44.9.1339
  16. Joo YH. 2015. Imperialism and Colonialism in the Food Industry in East Asia-Kikkoman Style Soy Sauce, Ajinomoto and Instant Ramen. Asia Review, 5(1):71-96 https://doi.org/10.24987/SNUACAR.2015.08.5.1.71
  17. Kim MH, Chung HK. 2011. A Study on the Gaesung's Food Culture of the Late 19th Century in the Novel Mimang. J. East Asian Soc. Dietary Life, 21(4):471-484
  18. Kim MH. 2015. The birth of contemporary Korean Food. Culture and I, 101:41-44
  19. Kim MH. 2016. Study on Modern Food Culture History through Records from Foreigners' Chosun Dynasty Travel in the Enlightenment Period. J. Korean Soc. Food Cult., 31(5):381-399 https://doi.org/10.7318/KJFC/2016.31.5.381
  20. Kim SB. 1995. Goongjoonuigweeumsikmoonhwa of the Chosun Dynasty. Soohaksa, Korea. pp 342-436
  21. Kim SH, Chung HK. 2007. Sugar Supply and Intake of Koreans. The Korean J. Nutrition, 40:22-28
  22. Kwon YS, Kim Y, Choe JS, Lee JY. 2014. A Study on the Recipe of Byung-Kwa-Ryu (Korean rice cake and cookie) in the Old Cookbooks of Jong-Ga (Head & Noble Family). Journal of the Korean Society of Dietary Culture, 29(1):61-83 https://doi.org/10.7318/KJFC/2014.29.1.061
  23. Kwon SY. 2010. Dietary life in the 1910's in the Cheongju Area: Material use of Banchandeungsok Korean J. Food Culture, 25(4): 410-415
  24. Lee EH. 2012. The changes of the sugar industry and consumer culture in modern Korea. Doctoral degree thesis. Yensei University, Korea. pp 24-25
  25. Lee EH. 2013a. Sugar Trade between Korea and East Asian Countries during the late 19th and early 20th Centuries. J. of the Association for the Historical Studies on Korean National Movement, 75:5-42
  26. Lee EH. 2013b. The Improvement of Dietary Life of the Upper Class in 1930s. History and reality, 88(1):271-302
  27. Lee IS, Choi JK. 2011. Physiochemical Properties of Fernbraken Jangajji during Korean Traditional Pickling Process. J. East Asian Soc. Dietary Life, 21(4): 545-552
  28. Lee JG. 1939 Required reading for housewife (家庭主婦必讀). Gyoungseongmyoungjeobogeuphoi, Korea, pp 1-104
  29. Lee JY. 2010. A historical study of sugar consumption and dental caries in Korea. J. of Korean Academy of Oral Health, 34(3):451-463
  30. Lee KR. Cho MS. 2009. Evaluation of the Meat and Poultry "Jorim" Model in Korean Modern Cookbooks. J. the Korean Society of Dietary Culture, 24(5):478-485
  31. Lee SM. 1934 Ganpyounchosunyorijebeob (簡便朝鮮料理法). Sammoonhwa, Korea, pp 1-197
  32. Lee SM. 1935 Ililhwalyongsinyoungyangyoribeob (日日活用新營養料理法). Singooseorim. Korea, pp 1-278
  33. Lee SW. 1998. Hankooksikgyungdaejeon. Hyangmoonsa. Seoul. p 71
  34. Lee SW. 1999. The cooking cultural history of Korea. Gyomoonsa. Seoul. p. 127
  35. Lee YK. 1924 Chosunmoossangsinsikyorijebeob (朝鮮無雙新式料理製法). Youngchangseogwan. Korea, pp 1-293
  36. Lim HS. 2002. A study on the traditional jangajji of Korea. J. Industrial technology research, 11:45-68
  37. Milyang Son Clan. 1913 Banchandeungsok (飯饌繕冊). In Cheongjoobanchandeungsokbojonhoi editors, 2013. Cheongjoobanchandeungsokbojonhoi, Korea, pp 1-95
  38. Oh SD. 2011. A Literature Review on the Type of Joseon Dynasty Jwabans, Journal of the Korean Society of Dietary Culture, 26(3):239-248
  39. Park GS, Lee SJ, Jeong ES. 2002. The Quality Characteristics of Beef Jerky According to the Kinds of Saccharides and the Concentrations of Green Tea Powder. J. Korean Soc. Food Sci. Nutr,. 31(2): 230-235 https://doi.org/10.3746/jkfn.2002.31.2.230
  40. Park YJ, Woo YH. 2012. Content Analysis in the Field of Educational Technology in Korea: A Methodological Review. J. of Educational technology, 28(2):263-287 https://doi.org/10.17232/KSET.28.2.263
  41. Sidney W. Mintz. 1998. Sweetness and power. Translated by Kim Moonho. Jiho. Korea. pp 41-65
  42. Son JG. 1948. Woorieumsik. Samjoongdang. Korea, pp 1-203
  43. Song TH, Woo IA, Sohn JW, Oh SI, Shin SM. 2011. Approachable Culinary Science. Kyomunsa, Korea. pp 72-98
  44. Yang JH. 2016. Literature Review of Hwachae in Korean Cookbooks Published in 1400-1940s. Master's degree thesis. Myongji University. pp 27-28
  45. Yang JW. Kim YH. Park DJ. Lee NH. Kim YG. 2014. Literature Review on Berries and Their Cooking Methods in ancient (1400s-1800s) and Modern (1900s-1940s) Literature of Korea. J. of the Korean Society of Dietary Culture, 29(1): 26-43 https://doi.org/10.7318/KJFC/2014.29.1.026
  46. Youngmoksangjeom. 1936. Chosun's cooking of the four seasons (四季朝鮮料理). Youngmoksangjeom, Korea, pp 1-97
  47. Hansik archive 2013. http://archive.hansik.org. 2016.04.01
  48. Korea Sugar Association 2007. http://www.sugar.or.kr. 2016. 11. 01
  49. National Institute of Korean History all right Reserved. 2000. http://db.history.go.kr. 2017. 04. 17
  50. The National Institute of the Korean language. 2006. http://www.korean.go.kr. 2016. 11. 10