한국의류학회지 (Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles)

  • 제39권1호
  • /
  • Pages.121-132
  • /
  • 2015
  • /
  • 1225-1151(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2234-0793(eISSN)
한국의류학회 (The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

White Hanbok as an Expression of Resistance in Modern Korea

  • 투고 : 2014.08.29
  • 심사 : 2014.10.20
  • 발행 : 2015.02.28
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

All aspects of clothing, including color, are a visible form of expression that carries invisible value. The purpose of this work is to study the expression of resistance in the white Hanbok in modern culture, specifically after the 1980s. Koreans have traditionally revered white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. In Korea, white represents simplicity, asceticism, sadness, resistance against corruption, and the pursuit of innocence. This paper looks at: (i) the universal and traditional values of the color white, (ii) the significance of traditional white Korean clothing, (iii) the resistance characteristics of white in traditional Korean clothes, and (iv) the aesthetic values of white Hanbok. The white Hanbok often connotes resistance when it is worn in modern Korea. It is worn in folk plays, worn by shamans as a shamanist costume, worn by protestors for anti-establishment movements, and worn by social activists or progressive politicians. The fact that the white Hanbok has lost its position as an everyday dress in South Korea (instead symbolizing resistance when it is worn) is an unusual phenomenon. It shows that the white Hanbok, as a type of costume, is being used as a strong means of expression, following a change in the value of traditional costumes as it take on an expressive function.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Barnard, M. (2002). Fashion as communication (2nd ed.). London & New York: Routledge.
  2. Carter, A. (1967). Notes for a theory of sixties style. New Society, 14, 866-867.
  3. Cho, Y. (1999). An exploration of Korean aesthetic beauty. Seoul: Youlhwadang.
  4. Choi, J., & Kim, M. J. (2005). 복식에 표현된 흰색의 이미지 [The images of white color expressed in contemporary fashion]. Proceedings of the Korean Society of Costume, Spring Conference, Korea, 71.
  5. Choi, N. (1946). Questions and answers on the Joseon dynasty (Joseon sang-sik mun-dab). Seoul: Dongmyungsa.
  6. Geertz, C. (1973). The interpretation of cultures: Selected essays. New York, NY: Basic Books.
  7. Gelder, K., & Thornton, S. (1997). The subcultures reader. London, New York: Routledge.
  8. Ha, Y. D. (1989). Korean traditional color and color psychic. Seoul: Myoungji.
  9. Hebdige, D. (1998). Subculture: The meaning of style (D. Y. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Hyunsil Culture Stidies. (Original work published 1979)
  10. Heller, E. (2002). 색의 유혹: 재미있는 13가지 색깔 이야기 [The lure of color: Thirteen amusing color stories]. (Y. H. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Yedam. (Original work published 2000)
  11. Hwang, R. (1985). 전라도 씻김굿 [Ssitgim-gut in Jeolla-do]. Seoul: Youlhwadang.
  12. Kan, M. (1998). A study on the anti-fashion expressed in the Korean student movement. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 41, 153-168.
  13. Kandinsky, W. (2007). The art of spiritual harmony (M. T. Sadleir, Trans.). New York, NY: Cosimo. (Original work published 1914)
  14. Kertzer, D. I. (1983). The role of ritual in political change. In M. J. Aronoff (Ed.), Culture and political change (pp. 53-74). New Brunswick: Transaction Books.
  15. Kim, D. W. (1977). Arirang and white clothes. Seoul: Gaemunsa.
  16. Kim, I. H. (2001). Story of Goryeo. Seoul: Jajak.
  17. Kim, J., & Shin, B. J. (2006). May, the triumph of democracy. Gwangju: The May 18 Memorial Foundation.
  18. Kim, J. R. (2008, December 17). 청와대와 정치검찰로부터 국민들이 강기갑을 지키자 [Let's protect Kang Gigap from Cheong Wa Dae and political prosecution]. Kim Jong-ryul blog. Retrieved September 20, 2013, from http://jrstar.tistory.com/98
  19. Kim, M. J. (2013). Aesthetics in dress: New perspectives on fashion & fashion thinking. Paju: Kyomunsa.
  20. Kroeber, A. L., & Kluckhohn, C. (1952). Culture: A critical review of concepts and definitions. New York, NY: Random House.
  21. Lee, M. S. (1998). A study on the Korean psychology of color based on achromatic color. The Review of Art and Design, 6, 5-22.
  22. Lee, Y. (1941). 朝鮮服色源流考 [The origins of the Joseon dynasty's clothing]. 춘추, 2(1), 112-118.
  23. Nan-gok. (2005). The history of shamans (Mudang naeryuk). Seoul: Minsokwon.
  24. National Museum of Korea. (1992). Special exhibition of paintings of Kim Hong-do. Seoul: Tong-cheon.
  25. Oppert, E. (1959). Ein verschlossenes land, reisen nach Corea (W. K. Han, Trans.). Seoul: Korean translation. (Original work published 1832)
  26. Provisional Government in Shanghai. (1919). The Korean independence movement. Shanghai: Provisional Government in Shanghai.
  27. Seo, B. H. (2007). Aesthetic characteristics of Asian costume beauty affected by religion and Asian looks. Unpublished doctoral thesis, Seoul National University, Seoul.
  28. Seo, B. H. (2009). The effect of three religions on the unexpressed color of traditional Korean costumes. Journal of Korean Society of Color Studies, 23(1), 131-144.
  29. Seo, B. H., & Kim, M. J. (2008). A study on east Asian costume beauty, affected by religion: Focusing on Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 58(2), 93-106.
  30. The Academy of Korean Studies. (1989a). 한국 민족문화 대백과사전 8 [Encyclopedia of Korean culture 8]. Seongnam: Author.
  31. The Academy of Korean Studies. (1989b). 한국 민족문화 대백과사전 9 [Encyclopedia of Korean culture 9]. Seongnam: Author.
  32. The City History Compilation Committ of Seoul. (2002). 개항 이후 서울의 근대화와 그 시련(1876-1910) [Modernization of Seoul and its ordeal after port opening (1876-1910)]. Seoul: Author.
  33. Tylor, E. B. (1871). Primitive culture: Researches into the development of mythology, philosophy, religion, art, and custom. London: John Murray.
  34. Yi, K. (2003). 역사인물초상화대사전 [Encyclopedia of portraits of historic figures]. Seoul: Hyeonamsa.
  35. Yu, C. S. (1934). 백의고 [Study on white clothing (Baek-uigo)]. The Dong-A Ilbo, p. 3.
  36. Yun, J. (2006). 東洋의 本來美學 [Eastern aesthetics]. Seoul: Nadeulmok.