복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)

  • 제23권6호
  • /
  • Pages.955-971
  • /
  • 2015
  • /
  • 1226-0401(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2383-6334(eISSN)
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

현대 여성복에 나타난 중국 명·청 시대 전통복식의 디자인 특성

Design characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing of the Ming-Qing Dynasty era in contemporary women's fashion

  • 주가이 (국립공주대학교 의류상품학과) ;
  • 하승연 (국립공주대학교 의류상품학과)
  • Zhu, Jiayi (Dept. of Fashion Design and Merchandising, Kongju National University) ;
  • Ha, Seung Yeon (Dept. of Fashion Design and Merchandising, Kongju National University)
  • 투고 : 2015.08.04
  • 심사 : 2015.11.23
  • 발행 : 2015.12.31
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

The purpose of this study is to consider the design characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing, especially from the Ming-Qing Dynasty era, and how they have influenced contemporary fashion. Regarding research methods, this study determined the design characteristics, such as the form, color and pattern of Chinese traditional clothing of the Ming-Qing Dynasty era. In addition, 440 photos were collected from the Paris Collection from 2005 to 2014 using www.firstviewkorea.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most popular silhouette from Chinese traditional clothing appearing in contemporary fashion was the H-shaped one, and the internal lines appeared in the following order: Chinese collar; narrow sleeve; symmetrical front opening; round collar; wide sleeve; and the C-shaped Biwa front-end. Second, the most popular color was achromatic black, followed by white. The chromatic colors were in the order of blue, yellow, red, green, and purple. Third, the patterns appeared in the following order: Plant patterns, complex patterns, and animal patterns. The peony pattern appeared the most commonly as a plant pattern, followed by the arabesque pattern and the plum blossom pattern which appeared with a similar proportion. Dragon, bird and phoenix patterns appeared the most for animal patterns. It is considered that the results of this study will be helpful for designing products for Korean fashion brands that will advance to the Chinese market. In addition, it will help Chinese designers apply the Chinese-style design characteristics popular among people throughout the world when they advance to the West.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Andrew GN 2005 F/W. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  2. Barbara Bui 2012 F/W. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  3. Chado Ralph Rucci 2008 S/S. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  4. Choi, Y. N. (2015. May 26). '한류의 힘' 패션-뷰티용품 수출 7년새 5배로 ['The power of Korean wave', fashion-beauty equipment exporter were increased five times in seven years] dongA.com, Retrieved September 22, 2015, from http://news.donga.com/3/all/20150525/71458369/1
  5. Cui, Z. J., Liu, J., & Qian, M. (2010). 中國傳統服飾圖監 [An illustrated guide to Chinese tradition costumes]. Beijing: The Oriental Press.
  6. Davis, M. L. (1996). Visual design in dress (3rd ed.). New Jersey: Prentice Hall.
  7. Delong, M. R. (1998). The way we look: Dress and aesthetics (2nd ed.). New York: Fairchild Publications.
  8. Dickinson, G., & Wrigglesworth, L. (1990). Imperial wardrobe. London: Bamboo Publishing Ltd.
  9. Dries Van Noten 2012 F/W. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  10. Gareth Pugh 2014 S/S. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  11. Garrett, V. (2007). Chinese dress: From the Qing dynasty to the present. Singapore: Tuttle Publishing.
  12. Hanfu. (n.d.). In Wikipedia. Retrieved December 22, 2015, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu
  13. Hong, N. Y., Shin, H. S., & Choi, J. H. (2004). Traditional costumes of Asia. Seoul: Gyomoonsa.
  14. Jean Paul Gaultier 2008 F/W. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  15. Jin, Y. (2012). Characteristic of Chinese style in contemporary men's jacket design. Unpublished master's thesis, Hanyang University, Seoul, Korea.
  16. Jung, J. S. (2006). A study on the "Chinoiserie" look in contemporary fashion design: Focus on the "Qipao" style popularized after the 2000 foreign fashion collection. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  17. Kim, S. Y. (2006). The study on the Chinesm on the modern fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 14(2), 220-233.
  18. Kum, K. S. (1994). The beauty of Korean traditional costume. Seoul: Youlhwadang.
  19. Ling, Y. N. (2007, April 18). Ming Dynasty dressed: Comics graphic Ming Dynasty cistumes. Retieved October 23, 2014, from http://hanweiyang.cn/yang/dispbbs.asp?boardID=2&ID=61732&star=2&page=
  20. Mei, H. (2011). Chinese clothing. London: Cambridge University Press.
  21. Qiao, D. (2012). A study on the aesthetic characteristics of Chinese chic in contemporary fashion design. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Chung-Ang University, Seoul, Korea.
  22. Shiatzy Chen 2009 F/W. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  23. Shiatzy Chen 2009 S/S. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  24. Shiatzy Chen 2013 F/W. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  25. Shiatzy Chen 2013 S/S. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  26. Shiatzy Chen 2014 F/W. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  27. Song, Y. X. (1966). Tian'gong kaiwu: Chinese technology in the seventeenth century. Pennsylvania: Pennsylvania State University.
  28. Sung, H. S. (2001). A study on orientalism style of modern fashion: Concentrating on Chinese pattern. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  29. Tang, Y. (1987). <<紅樓夢>> 的色彩以爲初探. [Zai tan hong lou meng yu yan de sheng lue yi shu]. Studies on "A Dream of Red Mansions", 1987(3), 136-170.
  30. Tian, Z. B., Wu, S. S., & Tian, Q. (2003). 中國紋樣史 [A history of Chinese decorative designs]. Beijing: Higher Education Press.
  31. Tsumori Chisato 2007 F/W. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  32. Tsumori Chisato 2013 F/W. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  33. Valentino 2013 F/W. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  34. Valentino 2014 F/W. (n.d.). firstVIEWkorea, Retrieved September 4, 2014, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
  35. Vollmer, J. E. (2002). Ruling from the dragon throne: Costume of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). California: Ten Speed Press.
  36. Wang, A. (2007). The research of visual characteristics of China chic in modern fashion. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul National University, Seoul, Korea.
  37. Xin, H. (2003, January 13). Five Thousands Years of Culture from Heaven: Chinese Dress through the Ages. Retrieved December 22, 2015, from http://www.pureinsight.org/node/1342
  38. Zhao, F. (2005). 絲綢藝術史 [A history of Chinese silk art]. Beijing: Cultural relics publishing house.
  39. Zhu Yuyuan (1476-1519). (n.d.). Ming Tombs. Retrieved December 22, 2015, from http://www.mingtombs.eu/o/yuyu/yuyu.html
  40. Zou, Y., & Li, M. Z. (2013, June 6). Change in ancient Chinese women costume. Retirved October 23, 2014, from http://news.jguo.cn/whcy/2013/0529/27334.html