Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

The Cosmeceutical Property of Antioxidant Astaxanthin is Enhanced by Encapsulation Using Glyceryl Based New Vesicle

글리세릴 베이스의 신규베지클 이용 캡슐화를 통한 항산화성 아스타잔틴의 성질 강화

  • 김동명 (한국콜마 색조화장품 연구소) ;
  • 홍원기 (한국콜마 색조화장품 연구소) ;
  • 공수성 (한국콜마 색조화장품 연구소) ;
  • 이정현 (한국콜마 색조화장품 연구소)
  • Received : 2014.03.24
  • Accepted : 2014.04.29
  • Published : 2014.09.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Oil-in-water nanoemulsions of astaxanthin prepared by new vesicle, glyceryl citrate/ lactate/ linoleate/ oleate, were evaluated thoroughly in terms of cosmeceutical properties such as antioxidant effect, cell viability, influence of protein related enzyme, skin penetration, skin hydration and elasticity. Antioxidant effect and cell viability of nanoemulsion of astaxanthin were evaluated by DPPH and MTT assay. Also other properties of nanoemulsions of astaxanthin were measured by proteome analysis using 2D-PAGE, confocal laser scanning microscope and in-vivo test. We were able to find that the nanoemulsion of astaxanthin is good at scavenging of radical and inhibits the degradation of dermal extracellular matrix with the down-regulation of MMPs and other proteins related to MMP expression. CLSM was adopted for observing penetration of nanoemulsion of astaxanthin and showed high effective penetration rate compared to the nanoemulsion of astaxanthin prepared by conventional lecithin. In-vivo measurement of the nanoemulsions in hydration and elasticity were conducted to 11 Korean female adults for 28 days and showed better results.

새로운 베지클인 glyceryl citrate/ lactate/ linoleate/ oleate를 이용한 수중유형 형태의 아스타잔틴 나노에멀젼에 대해 항산화 효과, 세포 생존력, 단백질과 관련한 효소의 영향, 피부 침투도 그리고 피부에 대한 보습 및 탄력 등의 약용화장품적인 측면에서의 전반적 연구를 실시하였다. 항산화력 및 세포 생존력에 대해선 각각 DPPH법과 MMT assay를 이용하여 측정하였다. 아스타잔틴 나노에멀젼에 대한 또 다른 성질은 2D-Page를 이용한 단백질 분석 및 컨포칼, in-vivo 테스트를 통해 측정하였다. 본 연구를 통해, 아스타잔틴을 포함하는 나노에멀젼은 MMP발현에 관련한 단백질 억제 및 세포외 기질의 분해를 막고 라디칼의 소거에 매우 우수한 결과를 보였다. 종전의 레시친을 이용한 나노에멀젼 보다는 새로운 베지클을 이용한 아스타잔틴 나노에멀젼의 피부 침투가 매우 효과적임을 CLSM을 통해 측정하였다. 또한 28일 동안의 한국 성인 여성 11명을 통한 보습 및 탄력 인비보 테스트에서 우수한 효과를 확인할 수 있었다.

Keywords

References

  1. W. Miki, Biological functions and activities of animal carotenoids, Pure Appl. Chem., 63, 141 (1989).
  2. N. Shimizu, M. Goto, and W. Miki, Carotenoids as singlet oxygen quenchers in marine organisms, Fish. Sci., 62, 134 (1996). https://doi.org/10.2331/suisan.62.134
  3. X. W. Zhang, X. D. Gong, and F. Chen, Kinetic models for astaxanthin production by high cell density mixotrophic culture of the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis, J. Ind. Microbiol. Biotechnol., 23, 691 (1999). https://doi.org/10.1038/sj.jim.2900685
  4. I. H. Ciapara, L. F. Valenzuela, F. M. Goycoolea, and W. A. Monal, Microencapsulation of astaxanthin in a chitosan matrix, Carbohydr. Polym., 56, 41 (2004). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.carbpol.2003.11.012
  5. H. S. Ribeiro and C. D. Cruz, Highly concentrated carotenoid containing emulsions, Engineering in Life Sciences, 5(1), 84 (2005). https://doi.org/10.1002/elsc.200403367
  6. I. Amar, A. Aserin, and N. Garti, Solubilization patterns of lutein and lutein esters in food grade nonionic microemulsions, J. Agric. Food Chem., 51, 4775 (2003). https://doi.org/10.1021/jf026222t
  7. A. Spernath, A. Yaghmur, A. Aserin, R. E. Hoffman, and N. Garti, Food-grade microemulsions based on nonionic emulsifiers: media to enhance lycopene solubilization, J. Agric. Food Chem., 50, 6917 (2002). https://doi.org/10.1021/jf025762n
  8. K. E. Drexler, Introduction to nanotechnology, prospects in nanotechnology, John Wiely & Sons INC., Hoboken, NJ. 1 (1995).
  9. I. C. Lee, Nano Technology, Kim Young Sa INC., Seoul, Korea (2002).
  10. K. C. Kang, H. B. Pyo, and J. D. Lee, Properties of nanoemulsions containing lecithin in cosmetics, J. Ind. Eng. Chem., 10(4), 564 (2004).
  11. E. Yilmaz and H. H. Borchert, Effect of lipid containing, positively charged nanoemulsions on skin hydration, elasticity and erythema - an in vivo study, Int. J. Pharmaceutics, 307, 232 (2006). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2005.10.002
  12. D. M. Kim, W. K. Hong, S. S. Kong, and U. Y. Lee, Novel encapsulation with new glyceryl ester vesicle enhances stability of nanoemulsion containing astaxanthin, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 39(3), 225 (2013). https://doi.org/10.15230/SCSK.2013.39.3.225
  13. A. Gorg, C. Obermaier, G. Boguth, A. Harder, B. Scheibe, R. Wildgruber, and W. Weiss, Current two-dimensional electrophoresis technology for proteomics, Electrophoresis, 21, 1037 (2000). https://doi.org/10.1002/(SICI)1522-2683(20000401)21:6<1037::AID-ELPS1037>3.0.CO;2-V
  14. M. M Sanders and E. T. Broconing, Solubilization of proteins in 2D electrophoresis: An Outline, Anal. Biochem., 103, 157 (1980). https://doi.org/10.1016/0003-2697(80)90250-X
  15. B. Herbert, M. P. Molloy, and K. L. Williams, Improved protein solubility in two -dimensional electrophoresis using tributyl phosphine as reducing agent, Electrophoresis, 19, 845 (1998). https://doi.org/10.1002/elps.1150190540
  16. B. S. Yoo, M. A. Yoo, Y. K Song, and S.Y. Byun, Regulation of proteins related to melanogenesis by heartwood extract of morus ombycis using proteome analysis, Biotechnol. Bioprocess Eng., 12, 662 (2007). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02931083
  17. J. Y. Seo, K. H. Cho, H. C Eun, and J. H. Chung, Skin aging from phenotype to mechanism, Kor. J. Invest. Dermatol., 8(4), 187 (2001).