대한화장품학회지 (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)

  • 제39권2호
  • /
  • Pages.149-158
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  • 2013
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  • 1226-2587(pISSN)
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  • 2288-9507(eISSN)
대한화장품학회 (Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)
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L-Ascorbic Acid의 산화특성에 따른 화장품 용기 개발 및 유효성 분석

A Development and Validation of Cosmetic Container Based on L-Ascorbic Acid Oxidation Property

  • 투고 : 2012.12.06
  • 심사 : 2013.02.26
  • 발행 : 2013.06.30
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초록

피부 미백, 콜라겐 합성 및 노화방지 등에 좋은 효능을 나타내는 대표적인 항산화제인 L-ascorbic acid를 사용하여 다양한 보관 조건(분말 상, 수용액 상, 온도 변화, 자외선 조사 및 외부공기 유입 등)에서 산화특성을 조사하였으며, 열에 의한 산화 및 분해특성을 조사하였다. 또한 이중 공간을 갖는 파우치를 사용하여 L-ascorbic acid를 분말 상태 및 에센스와 혼합한 상태에서 각각 보관 조건에 따른 산화특성을 분석하여 파우치의 유효성을 검증하였다. 열 특성조사를 위해서는 TGA, DSC 및 FT-IR을 사용하여 분석하였고, 산화특성 조사를 위해서는 UV-visible spectrophotometer와 산화환원 적정법을 병행 시행하였다. 실험 결과, L-ascorbic acid는 금속이온, 하이드록시이온 등이 많이 함유된 수용액 상에서 고온, 자외선 조사 및 외부공기가 유입되는 상태가 가장 빠른 산화조건인 것으로 나타났고, 순수한 분말 상으로 보관할 경우에는 가열, 자외선 조사 및 외부공기 유입 시에도 오랜 기간 동안 산화되지 않는 특성이 있었다. 이러한 결과를 바탕으로, L-ascorbic acid와 같은 산화 안정성이 떨어지는 활성 성분을 분리하여 보관할 수 있도록 설계 제작 중인, 진공포장이 가능한 이중 공간 구조의 파우치를 사용할 경우 화장품 보관기간을 획기적으로 증가시킬 수 있음을 확인하였다.

L-ascorbic acid, the representative antioxidants, has a great effect on skin whitening, collagen synthesis, and anti-aging, but has low oxidative stability during storage. Therefore, in this study, thermal and oxidation properties of L-ascorbic acid under various storage conditions (powder, aqueous phase, changes of temperature, UV-irradiation, and inflow of external air etc.) were investigated. And the storage stability of ingredient was validated in the double-spaced pouch by analysing oxidation properties under each storage conditions (powder phase and blended with essence). In oder to analyze the thermal properties, TGA, DSC, and FT-IR analysis were carried out and UV-visible spectrophotometer & redox titration were used in parallel for oxidation property analyses. From the result of experiment, L-ascorbic acid was oxidized fast when it contained lots of metallic ion, hydroxy ion in aqueous solution under high temperature, UV-irradiation & inflow external air, whereas it was not oxidized for a long time when it was stored as pure powder although it has same condition as heating up, UV-irradiation & inflow external air. Based on this result, retention period of cosmetics which is using L-ascorbic acid, less stable material in oxidation can be innovatively increased when using double-spaced pouch that is designed and produced for separating storage of active ingredients.

키워드

참고문헌

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피인용 문헌

  1. Ascorbic Acid-Based Oxygen Scavenger in Active Food Packaging System for Raw Meatloaf vol.83, pp.3, 2018, https://doi.org/10.1111/1750-3841.14061