대한화장품학회지 (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)

  • 제39권4호
  • /
  • Pages.271-279
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  • 2013
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  • 1226-2587(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2288-9507(eISSN)
대한화장품학회 (Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)
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콜라겐 수용액을 함유하는 역미셀의 제조 및 립 제품에 응용

The Preparation of Reversed Micelle Containing Water Soluble Collagen Solution and Their Application on Lip Make up Products

  • 김영호 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 정은지 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 이동원 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 이상길 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 표형배 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소)
  • 투고 : 2013.06.07
  • 심사 : 2013.07.10
  • 발행 : 2013.12.31
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초록

립스틱의 보습력을 개선하기 위해 수용성 콜라겐(30 wt%)을 역미셀 방법으로 립스틱의 유상 내에 포접하였다. 콜라겐을 포함하는 역미셀은 외부상으로서 caprylic/capric triglyceride와 계면활성제인 polyoxyethylene(10) octylphenyl ether (Triton X-100)와 보조계면활성제로 aliphatic alcohol인 1-dodecanol을 이용하여 제조되었다. 콜라겐을 포접하는 역미셀의 형성 조건은 전기전도도와 methylene blue (MB)를 이용한 UV-vis spectrum을 통해 확인하였고, 콜라겐 포접체를 함유하는 역미셀의 립스틱에서 안정성 및 보습력은 레올로지 측정, 수분량 측정 및 아미노산 정량을 통해 확인하였다. 물과 계면활성제의 농도비인 W (water-pool), [$H_2O$]/[Triton X-100]는 10이하에서 안정한 역미셀이 형성되었다. 20 wt%의 콜라겐 포접 역미셀을 함유한 립스틱은 역미셀을 함유하지 않은 립스틱과 경도에서 큰 차이없이 안정하였으며, 수분량은 59%까지 개선되었고, 아미노산 함량은 92.7%였다.

Water-soluble collagen (30 wt%) was entrapped within oil phase of lipstick using reversed micelle method to improve the moisture capacity of the lipstick. Reversed micelles containing collagen were prepared using caprylic/capric triglyceride as external phase and polyoxyethylene (10) octylphenyl ether (Triton X-100) and 1-dodecanol as surfactant and co-surfactant, respectively. The formation of reversed micelle encapsulating collagen was confirmed by measuring electric conductivity and UV-vis spectrum using methylene blue (MB). The stability and moisture capacity of the lipstick containing 20 wt% collagen encapsulated reversed micelles were observed by measuring rheology property, moisture content and amino acid content. The molecular ratio (W, water-pool) of water to surfactant (Triton X-100) in the most stable reversed micelle was ${\leq}$ 10. The hardness of the lipstick had no difference with that of the lipstick without reversed micelle, and the moisture content was increased to 59% and the amino acid content was 92.7%.

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참고문헌

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