International Journal of Costume and Fashion

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
권호 표지

The Forties Effect: An Appraisal of the Definitive 1940's Look and its Influence on Fashion

  • Almond, Kevin (Department of Fashion and Textiles, University of Huddersfield)
  • Received : 2013.09.14
  • Accepted : 2013.12.26
  • Published : 2013.12.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This article explores 1940's fashion. Much has been documented about the huge influence Dior's 1947 New Look had on fashionable clothing, as the industry conspired to reinvent itself as an economic and cultural power after World War II. The introduction of highly feminised and luxurious styles reinstated fashion as a viable concern globally and has arguably been recognised as the defining style of the 1940's. During World War II the fashion system of design, manufacture and export within the western world, virtually ceased. Many dress historians (Arnold, 2008; Breward, 1997; Guenther, 2004; McDowell, 1997; Robinson, 1976; Taylor, 1992; Steele, 1998; Veillon, 2002; Walford, 2008; Wilson & Taylor; 1989) have suggested that fashion ideas froze from 1939 to 1947. Deeper research identifies that during this period of style and trend starvation, many diverse and interesting design ideas arose from the restrictions imposed and Veillon (2002, p.145), has suggested that this period instigated what we now identify as Street Style (Polhemus, 2010). This research investigates the diversity of design ideas produced between 1939-1947 in order to establish whether pre or post 1947 can be upheld as the definitive 1940's look, one that influences contemporary fashion designers and one that we identify with as a conclusive style today.

Keywords

References

  1. Arnold, R. (2008). American Look: Fashion, Sportswear and the Image of Women in 1930s and 1940s New York: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York. London: I B Tauris & Co Ltd.
  2. Baines, B. (1981). Fashion Revivals. London: HarperCollins Distribution Service.
  3. Baker, P., & Elgin, K. (2006). The 1940s (Fashions of a Decade). London: Chelsea House Publishers.
  4. Berger, A. A. (2009). What Objects Mean: An Introduction to Material Culture. Walnut Creek: Left Coast Press Inc.
  5. Breward, C. (1997). Exhibition Review: Tanks and Trousseaus: Fashion in the Theatre of War-Forties Fashion and the New Look-Imperial War Museum, London. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, 1(3), 313-320. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270497779640152
  6. Bromley, I., & Wojciechowska, D. (2008). Very Vintage: The Guide to Vintage Patterns and Clothing. London: Black Dog Publishing Limited.
  7. Cassidy, T., & Bennett, H, R. (2012). The Rise of Vintage Fashion and the Vintage Consumer. Journal of Fashion Practice, 4(2), 239-262. https://doi.org/10.2752/175693812X13403765252424
  8. Clark, H., & Palmer, A. (2004). Old Clothes, New Looks. Oxford: Berg.
  9. Copping, N. (2007, October 15). Nip and tuck: Forties Fashion is a Cinch. The Times, 10.
  10. Curtiz, M. (Director). Mildred Pierce [DVD]. USA
  11. Freeman, H. (2000, August 04). 1940's Fashion. The Guardian, 20.
  12. Grace, T., & Rose, C. (2013). Haworth Picture Post 1940's Weekend. Keighley: Raiseprint.
  13. Guenther, I. (2004). Nazi Chic? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich. Oxford: Berg.
  14. Hardon, R. (2010). Margot Fonteyn and Fashion Designers in the 1940's. Costume: Journal of the Costume Society, 44(1), 96-105.
  15. Hayes, D. (2003, February 19). The Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy of Paris; Forties Fashion with a Flourish as Galliano brings a Sense of Fun to Paris: Evening Standard, 18.
  16. Howell, G. (2012). Wartime Fashion: From Haute Couture to Homemade, 1939-1945. Oxford: Berg.
  17. Hume, M. (1994, September 29). Fashion: Brief Encounter with the Forties: The Independent, 6.
  18. Jenkyn-Jones, S. (2011). Fashion Design. London: Laurence King.
  19. Kirkham, P., & Weber, S. (2013). History of Design: Decorative Arts and Material Culture, 1400-2000. London: Yale University Press.
  20. LaCava, S. (2013). Christian Dior, Vogepedia. Retrieved from http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Christian_ Dior_(Brand)
  21. Lean, D. (Director). Brief Encounter [DVD]. London: Eagle-Lion Distributers.
  22. Leeds Museums and Galleries. (2013 October 17) Fashions from the Home Front, Study Day. Lotherton Hall, Leeds UK.
  23. McDowell, C. (1997). Forties Fashion and the New Look. London: Bloomsbury Publishing PLC.
  24. Oxford Dictionairies. (2013). Ugly. Retrieved from http://oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/ugly?q=ugly
  25. Polhemus, T. (2010). Street Style: From Sidewalk to Catwalk. London: PYMCA.
  26. Robinson, J. (1976). Fashion in the 40's. London: Academy Editions.
  27. Sessions, D. L. (2013). 1940's Style Guide: The Complete Illustrated Guide to 1940's Fashion for Men and Women. London: Vintage Dancer.
  28. Steele, V. (1998). Paris Fashion. Oxford: Berg.
  29. Taylor, L. (1992). Paris Couture 1940-1944. In J. Ash & E. Wilson (Eds.) Chic Thrills (pp. 127-144). London, Pandora.
  30. Veillon, D. (2002). Fashion Under the Occupation. Oxford: Berg.
  31. Walford, J. (2008). Forties Fashion: From Siren Suits to the New Look. London: Thames and Hudson.
  32. Wilson, E., & Taylor, L. (1989). Through the Looking Glass. London: Penguin.
  33. Woodward, I. (2007). Understanding Material Culture. London: SAGE Publications Ltd.