DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Validity of Ocean Wave Spectrum Using Rayleigh Probability Density Function

  • Choi, Young Myung (Department of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering, Pusan National University) ;
  • Yang, Young Jun (Department of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering, Pusan National University) ;
  • Kwon, Sun Hong (Department of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering, Pusan National University)
  • 투고 : 2012.09.11
  • 심사 : 2012.11.30
  • 발행 : 2012.11.30

초록

The distribution of wave heights is assumed to be a Rayleigh distribution, based on the assumption of a narrow band and Gaussian distribution of wave elevation. The present study was started with doubts about the narrow band assumption. We selected the wave spectra widely used to simulate irregular random waves. The wave spectra used in this study included the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum, Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu spectrum, and JONSWAP spectrum. The directionality of the waves was considered. The cosine 2-l type directional spreading function and mixed form of the half-cosine 2-s type with Mitsuyasu type directional spreading are considered here to investigate the effects of a directional spreading function on random waves. The simulated wave height distribution is compared with a Rayleigh distribution.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Bretschneider C.L., Wave variability and wave spectra for wind-generated gravity waves, Beach Erosion Board Technical Momo, No. 113, Us Army Corps of Engineers (1959) 192
  2. Goda Y. and Y. Suzuki, Computation of refraction and diffraction of sea waves with Mitsuyasu's directional spectrum, Technical Note, Port and Harbor Research Institute, 230 (1975) 45 (in Japanese)
  3. Goda Y., Statistical variability of sea state parameter as a function of wave spectrum, Coastal Eng. in Japan, JSCE 31 (2) (1988) 39-52
  4. Hasselmann K. et al., Measurements of windwave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP), Deutsche Hydr. Zeit, Reihe A ($8^{\circ}$), 12 (1973) 95
  5. Longuet Higgins M.S., On the statistical distributions of sea waves, J. Marine Res. XI (3) (1952) 245-265
  6. Longuet-Higgins M.S., D.E. Cartwrite and N.D. Smith, Observation of the directional spectrum of sea waves using the motions of a floating buoy, Oc. Wave Spectra, Prentice-Hall, Inc. (1963) 111-132
  7. Mitsuyasu, H., On the growth of windgenerated waves (2) spectral shape of wind waves at finite fetch, Proc. 17th Japanese Conf. Coastal Eng., JSCE, (1970) 1-7 (in Japanese)
  8. Mitsuyasu, M. et al., Observation of the directional spectrum of ocean waves using a cloverleaf buoy, J. Phys. Oceanogr. 5 (1975) 750-760 https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(1975)005<0750:OOTDSO>2.0.CO;2
  9. Newland, D.E, An Introduction to Random Vibrations, Spectral and Wavelet Analysis, Longman Scientific & Technical, 1993
  10. Pierson, W.J., Jr., G. Neumann and R.W. James, Practical Methods for Observing and Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of Wave Spectra and Statistics, US Navy Hydrographic Office, H.O. Pub. No. 603 (1955).
  11. Putz R.R., Statistical distributions for ocean waves, Trans. Amer. Geophys. Union, 33 (5) (1952) 685-692 https://doi.org/10.1029/TR033i005p00685