한국염색가공학회지 (Textile Coloration and Finishing)

  • 제22권2호
  • /
  • Pages.101-109
  • /
  • 2010
  • /
  • 1229-0033(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2234-036X(eISSN)
한국염색가공학회 (The Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

면직물에의 천연 인디고 염색 - 일단계 환원/염색 공정 -

Natural Indigo Dyeing of Cotton Fabric - One-step reduction/dyeing process -

  • 신윤숙 (전남대학교 의류학과/생활과학연구소) ;
  • 조아랑 (전남대학교 의류학과/생활과학연구소) ;
  • 류동일 (전남대학교 고분자.섬유시스템공학과)
  • Shin, Youn-Sook (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles/Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University) ;
  • Cho, A-Rang (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles/Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University) ;
  • Yoo, Dong-Il (Dept. of Polymer and Fiber System Engineering, Chonnam National University)
  • 투고 : 2010.03.06
  • 심사 : 2010.06.10
  • 발행 : 2010.06.27
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

The objective of this study is to investigate the characteristics of natural indigo dyeing of cotton fabric. Reduction and dyeing were carried out by one-step process using an infrared dyeing machine at the liquor ratio of 1:100, and subsequently oxidation and washing in water were followed. Dye uptake was increased with the increase of indigo concentration. Over the full range of dyeing tests, the dyeing condition was optimized to $40^{\circ}C$ for 40min. For most of dye concentrations, the cotton fabrics showed mainly PB color. Maximum K/S value was shown at 4g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration and the color strength increased with the increase of dye concentration. Value(lightness) decreased with the increase of dye uptake irrespective of mercerization or reduction method, while the mercerized cotton showed two times higher dye uptake than the untreated cotton. Whereas hue of the untreated cotton showed large decrease of P character(5.6~3.5 PB) with the increase of dye uptake, that of the mercerized cotton increased P character(4.7~5.5 PB). Irrespective of mercerization, value and chroma decreased with the increased of dye uptake. In addition, the untreated showed lower chroma than the mercerized cotton. In the case of traditional reduction, hue of the untreated cotton was changed very little with the increase of dye uptake. For hydrosulfite reduction, P character decreased with the increase of dye uptake. The difference of hue value was small with the change of reduction method(hydrosulfite reduction or traditional fermentation). Color character was not influenced by the changed maximum absorption wavelength. Washing fastness showed 4~4/5 shade change rating without any staining. And dry rubbing fastness was good at low color strength. The bacterial reduction ratios of dyed cotton fabric were also increased.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. I. M. Jung, "Dyeing of Silk Fabrics with Natural Indigo Extracted from Polygonum Tinctorium", Ph.D. Thesis, Sungkyunkwan University, 1998.
  2. J. Y. Kang, "Natural Indigo Dyeing on Protein Fibers", Ph.D. thesis, Seoul National University, 2001.
  3. Y. J. Park, J. G. Yun, H. G. Jang, and B. G. Heo, Effect of Dyeing Conditions on Dyeing Characteristics in Silk during Natural Dyeing using the Raw Juice of Indigo Plants, Korean J. Plant Res., 18(3), 417-423 (2005).
  4. A. S. Kim, The Study on the Dyeing Properties of Natural Dyeing: Dyeing Properties of Cotton and Silk Fabrics by Color Solution Extracted from Leaf Dyeing of Indigo Plant, Textile Coloration and Finishing(J. Korean Soc. Dyers & Finishers), 7, 16-24(1995).
  5. J. A. Ju and H. S. Ryu, Dyeing on Cellulose Fibers by the Solution Extracted from Natural Fresh Leaves of Indigo Plant, Textile Coloration and Finishing(J. Korean Soc. Dyers & Finishers), 16(5), 249-257(2004).
  6. A. N. Padden, V. M. Dillon, J. Edmonds, M. D. Collins, N. Alvarez, and P. John, An Indigo-reducing Moderate Thermophile from a Woad Vat, Clostridium isatidis sp. nov. Intern, J. Systematic Bacteriology, 49, 1025-1031 (1999). https://doi.org/10.1099/00207713-49-3-1025
  7. S. K. Nicholson and P. John, The Mechanism of Bacterial Indigo Reduction, Appl. Microbiol. Biotechnol., 68, 117-123(2005). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00253-004-1839-4
  8. R. S. Blackburn and A. Harvey, Green Chemistry Methods in Sulfur Dyeing: Application of Various Reducing D-sugars and Analysis of the Importance of Optimum Redox Potential, Environ. Sci. Technol., 38, 4034-4039(2004). https://doi.org/10.1021/es0498484
  9. A. Vuorema, P. John, M. Keskitalo, M. A. Kulandainathan, and F. Marken, Electrochemical and Sonoelectrochemical Monotoring of Indigo Reduction by Glucose, Dyes and Pigments, 76, 542-549(2008). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.dyepig.2006.06.044
  10. A. Roessler, O. Dossenbach, and P. Rys, Electrocatalytic Hydrogenation of Indigo; Process Optimization and Scale-up in a Flow Cell, J. Electrochemical Soc., 150, D1-D5(2003). https://doi.org/10.1149/1.1521757
  11. A. Roessler, D. Crettenand, O. Dossenbach, W. Marte, and P. Rys, Direct Electrochemical Reduction of Indigo, Electrochimica Acta, 47, 1989-1995(2002). https://doi.org/10.1016/S0013-4686(02)00028-2
  12. K. G. Stoker, D. T. Cooke, and D. J. Hill, An Improved Method for the Large-scale Processing of Woad (Isatis tinctoria) for Possible Commercial Production of Woad Indigo, J. Agric. Eng. Res., 71, 315-320(1998). https://doi.org/10.1006/jaer.1998.0329
  13. T. Bechtold, A. Turcanu, S. Geissler, and E. Ganglberger, Process Balance and Product Quality in the Production of Natural Indigo from Polygonum Tinctorium Ait. Applying Low-technology Methods, Bioresource Technology, 81, 171-177(2002). https://doi.org/10.1016/S0960-8524(01)00146-8
  14. Y. Shin, K. H. Son, and D. I. Yoo, Dyeing Properties and Storage Stability of Leaf Powder Prepared from Dyer's Knotweed (I) - by Freeze Drying Method -, Textile Coloration and Finishing (J. Korean Soc. Dyers & Finishers), 21(1), 10-20(2009).
  15. Y. Shin, K. H. Son, and D. I. Yoo, Dyeing Properties and Storage Stability of Leaf Powder Prepared from Dyer's Knotweed (II) - by Hot Air and Room Temperature Drying Method -, Textile Coloration and Finishing(J. Korean Soc. Dyers & Finishers), 21(4), 23-32(2009). https://doi.org/10.5764/TCF.2009.21.4.023
  16. J. N. Etters and M. Hou, Equilibrium Sorption Isotherms of Indigo on Cotton Denim Yarn: Effect of pH, Textile Res. J., 61(12), 773-776 (1991). https://doi.org/10.1177/004051759106101211
  17. J. H. Xin, C. L. Chong, and T. Tu, Colour Variation in the Dyeing of Denim Yarn with Indigo, JSDC, 116, 260-265(2000).
  18. M. Gorensek, M. Gorjanc, and P. R. A. Meden, Parameters Influencing Dyeability of Cotton Warp at Dip-dyeing for Jeans, Textile Res. J., 78(6), 524-531(2008). https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517507082957
  19. I. M. Jung and S. O. Woo, Effect of Reducing Agent, Sodium Hydrosulfite on the Natural Indigo Dyeing of Silk Fabric, Korean J. Sericult. Sci., 44(2), 93-98(2002).
  20. Y. J. Jung, M. H. Lee, H. W. Choi, and E. P. Lee, A Study on the Dyeing Properties of Natural Indigo Complex Powder and Synthetic Indigo with Natural Fiber, Textile Coloration and Finishing(J. Korean Soc. Dyers & Finishers), 12(3), 16-24(2000).
  21. E. K. Hwang, M. S. Kim, D. S. Lee, and S. Y. Choi, Dyeing on Silk with Vat Dye, Korean J. Seric. Sci., 38(2), 168-174(1996).
  22. A. R. Cho, Y. Shin, and D. I. Yoo, "A Study on the Natural Fermentation of Natural Indigo Dye", Proc. of Spring Conf. Korean Soc. Clothing Industry, pp.231-234, 2009.
  23. R. S. Blackburn, T. Bechtold, and P. Jhon, The Development of Indigo Reduction Method and Pre-reduced Indigo Products, Color. Technol., 125, 193-207(2009). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2009.00197.x
  24. K. Iwaki, S. Koya-Miyata, K. Kohno, S. Ushio, and S. Fukuda, Antimicrobial Activity of Polygonum Tinctorium Lour: Extract against Oral Pathogenic Bacteria, J. Nat. Med., 60(2), 121-125(2006). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11418-005-0025-z

피인용 문헌

  1. Study on the Improvement of Dyeability of Commercial Indigo Leaf Powder for the Purpose of Utilizing It in Indigo Dyeing vol.38, pp.4, 2014, https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.4.540
  2. Dyeing of Nylon/Cotton Blend with Acid Dyes Using Sodium 2-(2,3- dibromopropionylamino)-5-(4,6-dichloro-1,3,5-triazinylamino)-benzenesulfonate vol.24, pp.1, 2012, https://doi.org/10.5764/TCF.2012.24.1.8
  3. A Study on the Current Status and Dyeing Characteristics of Natural Indigo Powder Dye vol.35, pp.7, 2011, https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2011.35.7.736
  4. Indigo Dyeing of Mongolian Cashmere Fiber vol.40, pp.6, 2016, https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.6.979
  5. Evaluation of aroma functionality imparted on natural indigo-dyed cotton fabrics vol.18, pp.6, 2017, https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-017-6942-0
  6. Pretreatment Process for Production of the Gromwell Colorants Powder vol.24, pp.1, 2012, https://doi.org/10.5764/TCF.2012.24.1.18
  7. Optimization of Cellulose Dyeing with Natural Indigo: Ramie dyeing by One-step Reduction/dyeing Process vol.13, pp.2, 2011, https://doi.org/10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.2.263
  8. Preparation Method of Indigo Standard Solution and Variation of Indigo Contents in Blue Dye Extract from Breeding Lines of Persicaria tinctoria H. Gross vol.21, pp.3, 2013, https://doi.org/10.7783/KJMCS.2013.21.3.213