Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Whitening Effect of Angelica keiskei Koidzumi Extract by Inhibition of Endothelin-1 Production and Melanogenesis

Endothelin-1 생성 저해와 멜라닌생성 저해에 의한 신선초 추출물의 미백 효과

  • 박선희 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소) ;
  • 이방용 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소) ;
  • 한창성 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소) ;
  • 김진국 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소) ;
  • 김경태 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소) ;
  • 김기호 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소) ;
  • 김영희 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소)
  • Published : 2008.06.30
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Abstract

In order to investigate the potential of a Angelica keiskei Koidzumi extract and its fractions as an active ingredient for whitening cosmetics, we prepared Angelica keiskei Koidzumi extract(70% ethanol), and the aqueous suspension was successively extracted with hexane, ethyl acetate(EA), and n-butanol fraction. We measured their inhibitory effects on mushroom tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells and normal human kerationocytes in vitro. They did not show inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase and the melanin synthesis except hexane and EA fractions. Hexane and EA fractions markedly inhibited cellular tyrosinase activity at a lower concentration(25 and 5 ${\mu}g/mL$, respectively) than arbutin(250 ${\mu}g/mL$). We also quantified the released amount of endothelin-1(ET-1), a mitogen of melanocyte, and interleukin-$1{\alpha}$(IL-$1{\alpha})$, a mediator of UVB-induced inflammation. Hexane and EA fractions did not affect IL-$1{\alpha}$ production, but they decreased UVB-induced ET-1 production in normal human keratinocytes in a dose dependant manner. As a result, hexane and EA fractions could inhibit the melanogenesis through the inhibition of UVB-induced ET-1 production in normal human keratinocytes. This result suggests that hexane and EA fractions of Angelica keiskei Koidzumi extract could be used as an active ingredient for cosmetics.

신선초 추출물 및 그의 분획물의 미백 효과를 알아보기 위하여, B16 멜라노마와 정상 사람 표피 세포를 이용하여 멜라닌 생성에 관련된 다양한 실험을 실시하였다. 70% ethanol 용매로 추출한 신선초 추출물을 연속적으로 분획하여 hexane, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, 물 분획물을 얻었다. 버섯 티로시나제 활성 실험에서 신선초 추출물 및 그의 분획물은 저해 효과를 보이지 않았으나, B16 멜라노마를 이용한 멜라닌 생성 실험에서는 hexane 분획물과 ethyl acetate 분획물에서 억제 효과를 보였다. 세포내 멜라닌 생성의 초기 단계에 작용하는 티로시나제 단백질의 활성을 조사한 결과, hexane 분획($IC_{50}$ < $25{\mu}g/mL$)과 ethyl acetate분획($IC_{50}$ < $5{\mu}g/mL$)은 알부틴($IC_{50}{\leq}250{\mu}g/mL$)과 비교 시 더 낮은 농도에서 현저하게 티로시나제 활성을 저해시켰다. 따라서 신선초 추출물의 미백 작용 기전을 규명하기 위하여, 멜라노 사이트의 mitogen으로 작용하는 endothelin-1(ET-1)과 UVB에 의해 생성되어 염증을 매개하는 interleukin-$1{\alpha}$(IL-$1{\alpha})$의 생성량을 측정하였다. Hexane 및 ethyl acetate 분획물은 IL-$1{\alpha}$의 생성에 영향을 끼치지 못했으나, 표피세포에서 UVB에 의해 생성된 ET-1을 농도에 따라 감소시킴으로써 멜라노사이트의 melanogenesis를 저해하는 것으로 확인되었다. 따라서 신선초 추출물은 미백 효능을 갖는 화장품 소재로써 사용 가능하리라 판단된다.

Keywords

References

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