Dyeing of Silk Fabric with Aqueous Extract of Cassia tora L. Seed - focusing on the mordanting and dyeing mechanisms -

결명자 색소 추출액에 의한 견직물 염색 -매염 및 염착 mechanism을 중심으로-

Silk fabrics mordanted with $Fe^{2+},\;Ni^{2+},\;and\;Cu^{2+}$ were dyed with the aqueous extract of Cassia tora L. seed which was known to include water soluble colorant kaempferol, one of flavonol compounds. Kaempferol can react with free radicals and chelate transition metal ions, which is thought to catalyze processes leading to the appearance of free radicals and have antioxidant activity. In relation to the coordinating and chelating mechanism of the ions with the silk protein and kaempferol, reasonable conclusions should be made on the colorant uptake and the water fastness of the fabric. The amount of the colorant on the fabric was in the order of $Fe^{2+}>Ni^{2+}>Cu^{2+}$. In case of dyeing through coordinaiton bonds between transition metal ions and silk protein and colorants, it was thought that the ions with the smaller secondary hydration shell, the higher preference to the atoms of the ligand coordinated, and the suitable bonding stability for the substitution of primarily hydrated water molecules for colorants led to the higher colorant uptake. The water fastnsess of the fabric was in the order of $Fe^{2+}>Cu^{2+}>Ni^{2+}$. It should be reasonable to choose transition metal ions with weak and strong tendency to the ionic and the coordination bond, respectively, to the carboxylate anion of the silk protein. Although further research needs to be done, the conclusions above may be generally applied to the natural dyeing through the coordination bond mechanism between transition metal ions and colorants and substrates.