대한화장품학회지 (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)

  • 제31권4호
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  • Pages.311-321
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  • 2005
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  • 1226-2587(pISSN)
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  • 2288-9507(eISSN)
대한화장품학회 (Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)
권호 표지

녹차의 피부보호효과

Skin Care Effects of Green Tea

  • 이병곤 (태평양기술연구원 피부과학연구소)
  • 발행 : 2005.12.31
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⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

차(Camellia sinensis)는 세계적으로 애용되는 음료이다. 그 중, 아시아권에서 주로 소비되는 녹차는 다양한 생리활성을 가지고 있어 화장품, 기능성식품을 위한 기능성 소재로서 선호되고 있다. 녹차의 피부에 대한 활성은 세포보호에서부터 피부 기질 단백질의 합성까지 다양하게 나타난다. 녹차 폴리페놀(green tea polyphenols; GTPs)은 활성을 나타내는 주성분으로서 항산화 활성 이외에 항암, 항염증, 피부면역능 저하방지활성 등을 보이며, 세포내 신호전달 경로에도 관여한다 GTPs는 표피각질형성세포에서 자외선 조사에 의한 산화 스트레스를 감소시키고, 그에 따르는 mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) 신호전달과 세포사멸을 억제한다. 또한, 같은 세포에서 tumor necrosis factor alpha $(TNF{\alpha})$나 다른 화학물질에 의해 cyclooxygenase-2(COX-2), interleukin-8 (IL-8) 및 vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) 같은 염증매개물질이 유발되는 것을 막아준다. 또한, GTPs는 등물실험에서 화학물질이나 자외선에 의한 피부암의 발생도 억제하는데, 경구투여 외에 경피투여로도 효과가 있었다. 피부보호작용 이외에도 GTPs는 각질형성세포의 분화촉진, 노화된 피부세포의 증식능 회복, 피부기질단백질의 분해억제 등의 기능이 있으며, 피부세포에서의 기질단백질 생합성을 직접적으로 촉진하기도 한다. 녹차성분이 보이는 이러한 피부에 대한 활성은, 제형 측면에서의 연구가 진행되어 감에 따라 보다 효과적인 피부를 위한 소재로서의 사용 가능성을 더욱 높여주고 있다.

Tea (Camellia sinenis) is a popular beverage consumed worldwide. Since green tea, mainly consumed in Asia, has various biological activities, green tea components became one of the most favorite candidates as a functional materials for cosmetics and functional foods. The biological activities of green tea for skin cue have been ranged from protection of epidermal cells to the stimulation of extracellular matrix (ECM) biosynthesis. Green tea polyphenols (GTPs), which are active ingredients of green tea, possess anti-inflammatory, anti-carcinogenic and immune potentiation properties as well as antioxidant. They also modulate intracellular signal transduction pathways. GTPs decrease ultraviolet (UV)-induced oxidative stress, thus suppress mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway and apoptosis in keratinocytes. In addition, GTPs prevent the Induction of inflammatory mediators, such as cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), interleukin-8 (IL-8), and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) by tumor necrosis factor alpha $(TNF{\alpha})$ or chemical treatment in keratinocytes. GTPs treatment protects from chemical-or UV-induced skin tumor incidence in animal experiment. Besides, GTPs stimulate keratinocyte differentiation and proliferation of normal and aged epidermal cells, resectively, and suppress matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) release. According to the progress of formulation study, green tea components will be guaranteed materials for the more effective skin cue products.

키워드

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