초록
천연염료로서 금계국의 이용가능성과 금계국 식물체에서 추출한 염료를 이용한 천연염색시 천연매염제 처리농도, 매염방법 및 종류에 따른 견직물의 염색성을 조사하였다. 금계국 추출물로 견직물을 염색한 결과 표면색상은 무매염시 Y계열로 나타났으며, 매염처리시는 Y 및 YR 계열로 나타나 천연 염료로서의 이용 가능성이 충분했다. 동백나무 회즙, 굴껄질 회즙, 노린재 나무 회즙을 $10\%,\;20\%,\;30\%$ 농도로 매염처리 한 후 견직물의 염색성을 조사한 결과 농도에 따른 표면색상 변화는 거의 없었으나 염착농도는 $20\%$에서 가장 좋았다. 견직물의 표면색은 매염처리 방법에는 큰 영향을 받지 않았으나 염착농도는 후매염, 선매염, 동시매염 처리구 순으로 높게 나타났다. 금계국 추출물로 천연염색한 견직물에 29종의 천연매염제를 처리한 결과 견직물의 표면색은 동백나무와 사스레피나무 회즙 매염처리구에서만 YR계열을 나타냈고, 그외 처리구에서는 Y계열로 나타났다. 또 천연매염제를 처리한 결과 염착농도는 무매염 처리구에 비해 월등히 높아져 천연매염제로서도 매염효과를 충분히 낼 수 있음을 확인되었다.
This study was conducted to clarify the effects of different natural mordants and mordanting methods on the dyeing degree of silk using extracts from Coreopsis drummondii. Surface colors were shown as an order of descent Y in control, and an order of descent Y and YR treated by mordants. Extracts from Coreopsis drummondii was sufficient for the natural dyestuffs. $10\%,\;20\%\;and\;30\%$ mordants made from lime-juice of Camellia japonica, oyster shells. and Symplocos chinensis (Lour) Druce for. pilosa (Nakai) Ohwi were used for the dyeing of silk. Surface color of silk was not affected by the concentration of mordants and mordanting methods, however, $20\%$ mordant was suitable for the dye coloring. It was shown that dye coloring concentrations were highly in the order of mordanting later > mordanting ahead > co-mordanting, and so on. Silks were naturally dyed by the extracts from Coreopsis drummondii, and twenty-nine kinds of natural mordants were treated and screened. Surface color of silk was shown as an order of descent YR treated by the mordants made from the lime-juice of Camellia japonica and Eurya japonica, and as an order of descent Y by the other mordants. By the treatment of natural mordants, concentrations of dye coloring were significantly increased compared with control (none-mordanting), and the potentials as a natural mordant for the effective dye coloring was sufficiently ascertained.
