슬랙스 설계를 위한 하지동작에 따른 체표선 변화 1

Changes in Body Surface Lines Caused By Lower Limb Movements in Designing Slacks (I)

A precise understanding of the human form in static pose serves as the basis of designing clothing. When the human body is in motion, however, even an article of clothing designed to fit the human form in static pose can pull and change, thus restricting the body. In order to increase the fit of the clothing, which may be termed the second skin, its form and measurements therefore must be determined in correlation not only with the formal characteristics of the human body, in static pose but also with its functional characteristics in motion, as caused by the movements of the human body. In this study, the motion factor was selected as the primary basis for designing slacks with good fit in both static and moving states. By indentifying the areas in which lower limb movement cause significant changes in body surface lines, we suggest several application methods for designing slacks. Using unmarried female university students aged 18 - 24 as subjects, a total of 32 body surface categories (15 body surface lines and 17 body surface segment lines) were measured in one static and 9 movement poses. In particular, expansion and contraction levels and rates were measured and used in the analysis. The analysis first involved the calculation of the average measurement per body part in body surface line in static pose as well as of the average expansion and contraction levels and rates in 9 lower limb movements. Two-way MANOVA and multiple comparison analysis (Tukey) were conducted on movements and individual somatotypes regarding measurement per body part and expansion and contraction rates. Body parts whose measurements of body surface lines differed significantly in body surface line in static pose versus in movement were then identified. The results of this study are as follows. First, changes in body surface lines caused by lower limb movements were significant in all body surface lines of the lower trunk, both horizontal and vertical, with the exception of abdomen girth, midway thigh girth, ankle girth, hip length, and posterior knee girth. Second, significantly expanded 10 body surface lines in moving pose were detected and illustrated in table 4. These body parts should be studied in designing or pattern designing, especially for close-fitting pants, in using stretch fabric, and in sensory evaluation of good fit during movement.