복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)
- 제11권4호
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- Pages.551-561
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- 2003
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- 1226-0401(pISSN)
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- 2383-6334(eISSN)
조선시대 복식규제를 통해서 본 사치풍조의 제 요인과 복식변화 - 17.18세기를 중심으로 -
The Factors of Luxury Trend and Fashion Changes as Result of Costume Regulations during Choson Dynasty: 17th and 18th Century
초록
The regulations for costume were set to improve people's moral fiber and cultural standards. In the 17th and 18th century, the main aim of this regulation was to prohibit luxury. But being the turning point to a modem state, with breaking social status and development of commerce, industry, and the mind of imitation, regulation for luxury wasn't enforced, but rather it brought many revolutionary changes in costume. Restraining human impulse to express beauty was no longer subject to regulation. Therefore, people started to recognize the human figure with shorter Jegory(저고리) and strengthened ceremonial capacity by broadening po's(포) sleeves. The silk fabrics were the most popular fabric during this era, special patterns were added for decoration and also for blessings. Complementary colors were used for contrast on the collar (깃), cuffs (끝동), Gyotrnagi (곁마기), and sash (고름). This color composition gave a younger and more active look. And with red stripes on the sleeves, it emphasized the beauty of the color arrangements as well as providing protection from the devil.