A Study on Standardization of Pattern Design of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers

한복바지 원형설계의 표준화를 위한 연구

It is thought that a composition of trousers is related to fabrics with single breadth. Therefore, trousers are designed with pattern using this fabrics with single breadth. However, in the old pattern of trousers, the breadth of 33cm-35cm was not considered in designing patterns. In this context, deciding which pattern design is better is not easy as there are a variety of estimation methods. So in this study, standardization of drafting is pursued by an objective pattern design. For this, a base angle of the trouser closely relating to a form and function was measured and using the height and the base angle, a trouser pattern design was tried. For a measurement of the base angle, 5 subject were selected. They are 25-29 year-old male graduates with fine physical standard. The base angle was measured with symphysis pubis point as a standard when subjects sat with their legs crossed, when they stood with their legs open (not forced artificially) and when they laid down with their legs open. The distance between a knee inside joint and knees was measured three times and the resultant value was used for the pattern design. For a design of trousers, the height was applied and the base angle was fixed. As a pattern drawing, using the height, a base angle and circumference of the hip, a trouser was designed. The production method for the pattern design is as follow: (1) The length formula, is height + $\frac{height}{2}$ (2) The hip girth formula is $\frac{hipgirth}{2}$ - $\frac{hipgirth}{20}$(3) A crotch angle is fixed at $72^{\circ}$. (4) The ratio of outer leg length to leg width is 5 : 8. (5) The component ratio of the upper outer leg length to the pant length is 5 : 8. (6) The ratio of the division point of front right inner leg length and left inner width to upper outer leg length is 5 : 8.