• Park, Koo-Yong (University of Oxford, Park Road, Oxford, United Kingdom)
  • Published : 2000.07.01


This paper describes an adaptive quadtree-based 2DH wave-current interaction model which is able to predict wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, mixing processes (turbulent diffusion), bottom frictional effects, and movement of the land-water interface at the shoreline. The wave period-and depth-averaged governing equations are discretised explictly by means of an Adams-Bashforth second-order finite difference technaique on adaptive hierarchical staggered quadtree grids. Grid adaptation is achieved through seeding points distributed according to flow criteria(e.g. local current gradients). Results are presented for nearshore circulation at a sinusoidal beach. Enrichment permits refined modelling of important localised flow features.



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