Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Effect of Natural Products on Skin Cells -Action and Suppression of Reactive Oxygen Species-

천연물의 피부세포에 미치는 영향 - 활성산소의 작용과 억제 -

  • 박수남 (서울산업 대학교 정밀화학과)
  • Published : 1999.10.01
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Abstract

활성 산소종은 노화, 특히 피부노화의 원인 물질로 작용하고 있다. 피부는 자외선에 노출되어 있어 활성 산소종을 만드는 광화학적 반응들이 계속해서 일어나고 있다. 이들 활성 산소종들은 피부 세포 및 조직 손상을 주도한다. 이들은 항산화 효소와 비효소적 항산화제들로 구성된 항산화 방어망을 파괴함으로써 산화제/항산화제 균형을 산화 상태 쪽으로 기울게 한다. 결과적으로 계속된 산화적 스트레스는 지질 과산화, 단백질 산화, 간질 성분을 파괴시키는 단백질분해효소의 활성화, 탄력 섬유인 콜라겐과 엘라스틴의 사슬절단 및 비정상적인 교차결합, 히아루론산 사슬의 절단, 멜라닌 생성반웅 촉진, DNA 산화와 같은 생체 구성 성분들의 손상을 야기시킨다. 결국에는 탄력감수 주름살 및 기미.주근깨 둥으로 특징 지워지는 피부노화가 가속화된다. 따라서 피부노화 방지를 위해서는, 과잉의 활성 산소종 생성을 억제하고 또한 생성된 활성산소를 효율적으로 제거할 수 있는 시스템이 화장품의 처방에 반드시 포함될 필요가 있다. 즉, 산화제/항산화제 밸런스가 유지되는 피부의 항산화 방어 시스템 구축이 필요하다. 피부노화 방지에 있어서 천연물의 역할로 (1) 자외선 흡수제로서의 역할, (2) 항산화제로서의 역할, (3) 주름 개선제로서의 역할, (4) 미백제로서의 역할, (5) 항균\ulcorner항염작용 및면역 조절제로서의 역할에 대하여 살펴 보았다. 21세기는 본격적으로 기능성 화장품 시대가 개막될 것으로 예측하고 있다. 이에 맞춰 천연물들은 피부노화를 방지하는데 주도적인 역할을 할 것으로 기대된다.

Keywords

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