초록
The structural characteristics and mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, compression and surface of the silk fabrics manufactured by the different shrinkage of filling varns were investigated. For this study, the filling yarn was treated with the salt solution to make shrinkage and. the results obtained are as follows; ① In fabric structure, high shrinkage fabrics have more thickened and bulkier feature with the reduced linearity and yarn integrity than low shrinkage fabric. ② As the filling shrinkage of the fabrics increased, tensile strength decreased, while bending rigidity, compressional energy and bending hysteresis increased. ③ Surface characteristics such as friction coefficient and thickness variation of highly shrinkage fabrics became relatively roughened state. ④ Since stiffened and roughened characteristics of highly shrinkage fabrics, drapabilities of them were significantly lowered. Additionally thermal insulation property of high shrinkage fabric was higher than that of low shrinkage fabric due to bulky and thickened feature. From the results, it is considered that the silk fabrics with high filling shrinkage have the good bulkiness and heat keeping properties and thus they have the suitable characteristics for high quality men's and women's formal gaments.