Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)
- Volume 38
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- Pages.51-72
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- 1998
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- 1229-6880(pISSN)
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- 2287-7827(eISSN)
The Comparison of formative Characteristics Clothing in Fashion and Art to Wear.-focused on Art to Wear of Futurism in 1910~1930
유행의상과 예술의상의 조형적 특성 비교-미래주의 예술의상을 중심으로-
Abstract
Futurists objected the existent style, that is the conventional fashion, and took part in these disciplines of fashion to make clothes the instruments being able to represent the individuality. Giacomo Balla and fortunato Depero, pain-ters who in 1915 were to work with Diaghilev's company, were the first to see clothing as a dynamic interfaced between th body and the atmosphere, between physical gestures and the urban context, which could be translated into encounters between forms and colours, volumes and architecture. For them, clothing began to exist as an object and an event, something to be removed from a mainly static conception and made mobile, active. The interaction between movement and clothing was based on the relativity of perception : the appearance and disappearance of the body produced points without dimension or duration which served, as Balla wrote in the Futurist Mnaifesto of Men's Clothing to“renew incessantly the enjoyment and impetuous movement of the body”. The historical achievement in the effort for the reformation of Futurist, Art to Wear. First, for Futurist, clothing is removed from a static conception and focused on dynamics. Second, Balla used asymmetry in men's clothing. Moreover he supposed dynamic men's clothes by using optical intersection. Third, the after image of Chronophotograph represented rapidity. This rhythmic expression is the fore-runner in Optical and Kinetic Art of Visual Art. Fourth, Futurist emphasized flexibility in fashion. They aimed to create‘Clothing Machines’whose parts would interact to aceelerate the real and virtual, inner and outer movement of the human being. Fifth, the variety and short life of cutting skills and colors are focused and‘Fast Substance’in fashion is admitted by Futurists. Futurist concern with clothing was not lim-ited its appearance in terms of cut and colour. What important was also the way it appeared and disappeared according to fashion. It was a“fast substance”, able to reflect rapid, sudden changes of social and aesthetic taste. To reach to the aim of internationalization, Gesamtkunstwerk in our Art to Wear, it is extremely meaningful to examine art fashion which is created under the conception of Gesamtkunstwerk production of avang garde artist in the early 20th century and look at formative conscious of truth, goodess and beauty synthetically which they faced on their works of art.
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