Abstract
Wool yarns were treated in dimethylformamide solutions containing various concntrations of three dibasic acid anhydrides: succinic, itaconic, and phthalic arthydrides in various conditions. The structurl aspects of these dibasic acid anhydries are different: succinic, itaconic, and phthalic acid arthydrides have saturated aliphatic ethylene, unsaturated aliphatic vinyl and aromatic phenyl one groups, respectively. The properties of acylated wool keratin are as follows: Decreasing amino group and increasing carboxyl group by acylation lowered the hydrophilic property, and then moisture regain, and decreased acid dye uptake and enhanced cationic dye uptake of wool keratin. In the case of phthalic acid anhydries, in spite of lowest acyl content, the minimum of moisture regain was resulted from the bulk benzen ring, occuping much more voids on wool keratin molecules than other reagents. Acid solubility was increased by the decrease of amino group and hydrogen bonding by acylation. Alkali solubility was also increased formation of new amide group on the side chain of keratin, which can be degraded easily by alkali. In the case of phthalic acid anhydride, the relative high solubility was resulted from the much higher molecular weight of dissolved fractions. The surface of wool keratin was not damaged by treatment with any acylating agent.