급경사 해저면에 대한 파랑의 반응특성

The Characteristics of Waves on the Steep Sloping Sea Bottom

This study discusses the interacting with deep water waves approaching from deep water based on the linear wave theory and steep sloping sea bottom floor by the numerical procedure. The results of particular interest are particle velocity and acceleration in x, y, z direction wave height amplification factor reflection coefficient and dimensionless pressure distribution on the steep sloping bottom with respect to the various incident wave angle. The wave loads relative to various bottom slopes, incident wave angles and wave periods on submerged breakwater and pipe are represented in comparison with mild sloping bottom the wave load parameters on the steep sloping bottom seemed to be influenced by variation of incident wave angle. In general the particle velocities and accelerations in x, y, z directions on the steep sloping bottom represented larger value or about two than those on the mild sloping bottom according to incident wave angle. However, the wave height amplification factors did not show distinct difference, but the slight variation with respect to the various incident angle showed on mild sloping bottom. The reflection coefficient increased with respect to increase of the incident angle on the steep sloping bottom the results also indicate that the very steep sloping beach produces a rather substantial amount of reflection as we expected. No significant variation of wave pressure was shown on the steep sloping bottom but it represented a certain amount of variation on the mild sloping bottom according to the various incident wave angle. The analysis at the OTEC site also showed similar results.