후가공이 태(Handle)에 관계되는 포의 역학특성의 변화에 미치는 영향에 관한 연구 ―필라멘트 직물을 중심으로―

A Study on the Effect of Aftertreatments on the Variation of Mechanical Properties of Fabric Related to Handle ―For Multifilament Yarn Fabrics―

The effect of successively performed chemical aftertreatments such as desizing, scouring, presetting, alkali reducing and dyeing etc. on the mechanical properties of filament fabrics related to handle was studied. The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by the KES-F measuring system and handle values were also calculated by means of HESC (Hand Evaluation and Standardization Committee) system from the date of mechanical properties. The correlation coefficient between physical properties of the fabric was calculated and also evaluated. the results are summarized as fallows: 1. the mechanical properties of the desized, scoured and relaxed fabrics were remarkably changed as compared with grey fabric. The values of bending rigidity (B) and bending hysteresis (2HB) were decreased by the aftertreatments such as desizing, scouring and relaxing. 2. The surface property of fabrics (MIU value) is anisotropic, so that, as a whole, the filling direction had higher values than warp direction. Generally, MIU values of both direction were increased after alkali reducing treatment. 3. The shear properties (G,2HG) were remarkably decreased with the successively performea aftertreatments. The variation ranges were affected by the processing condition of aftertreatment. 4. The compressive properties were changed by the aftertreatment. Generally, LC values were increased but WC values were increased or decreased by the condition of fabric construction after successively performed aftertreatment. 5. The variation of tensile property of the fabric showed different behavior respectively to the warp direction and the filling direction according to the fabric construction conditions. 6. Alkali reducing treatment was remarkably affected on the mechanical properties of fabric, so that the handle of polyester fabric was considerably advanced by the alkali reducing finish.