한국(韓國) 전통복색(傳統과 염채(染采)에 관한 연구(硏究)

A Research on Dye and Color in Korean Traditional Colors of Clothing

The idea of King Hungdok's prohibition of clothing was to restrict the use of chinese-made cloth on the one hand and to compell his people to use Korean-made cloth for their apparel on the other. The prohibition of clothing sprang from King Hungdok's aspiration to restore his dynasty that had been falling due to the repeated drought disaster and luxurious living of the aristocracy. Safflower, Rubeaceae roots and Sapan wood are well known as some of the earliest natural red-dyes, exhibiting beautiful red-color in our anciet cultural tradition. The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. Those plants used to make the color yellow are: Gardenia, phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, coptis, safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. Shikon, root of violet plant, is well known as one of the earliest natural days. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color.