Note on the appearance of Freak Waves from in-situ ocean wave data

  • 발행 : 2006.11.16

초록

Freak waves in the ocean are recently drawing much attention as a natural disaster to ocean structures and navigating ships as well. Several observation data, among them the Draupner New Year Wave, show the very impressive feature of Freak waves whose wave height is up to three times as high as the significant wave height of surrounding waves, In addition, Freak wave appears as an isolated very high crest in somewhat stationary random waves of same order in their wavelengths. Bearing such characteristics in mind, one notices its extraordinary steepness. This strongly suggests that Freak wave is not long lived but transient nature on the whole. A great number of studies to explain these natures were published from both theoretical and numerical point of view. However it is not sure if they are applicable to actual ocean environment. In this paper, we deal with the results concerning abnormal and/or Freak waves from in-situ ocean wave data and point out several remarks to the problems lain behind the contributions in this context. A physical experiment is described to reinforce the subject discussed from the observation data.

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