MASS TRANSPORT IN FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVES

A general scheme is developed which determines the Lagrangian motions of water particles by the Eulerian velocity at their mean positions by use of Taylor's theorem. Utilizing the Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory, the mass transport velocity which includes the effects of higher-order wave components is determined. The fifth-order theory predicts the mass transport velocity less than that given by the existing second-order theory over the whole depth. Limited experimental data for changes in wave celerity in closed wave flumes are compared with the theoretical predictions.